Type: Trad, 550 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dave Baker & Fig. FFA pitch one: Ray Ringle.
Page Views: 2,860 total · 35/month
Shared By: Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Sep 30, 2013 with improvements by CASA Climbing Assn. of So. AZ
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Read this Access Note! Details

Description

This great old-school line follows the giant chimney system on the northwest face of End Pinnacle. It was originally climbed by Dave Baker using aid on the first pitch; the first pitch was later freed by Ray Ringle.

Pitch one is among the best pitches in the Stronghold. Its stemming, liebacks, and knee bars are outrageous fun and it is almost unbelievable how it climbs. The climbing remains relatively hard for the first half of pitch two until the main chimney system is gained. From here you will encounter a great diversity of classic Stronghold climbing including chimneys, bulges, corners, stems, cracks, traverses, and even an arch. The gear is sparse in places.

Pitch 1 (5.11+, 90') – Amazing climbing up a groove protected by gear and bolts. Singles to #4 camalot and stoppers with an extra .5” cam is plenty of gear for this pitch. Note: If you want to do this climb but think the first pitch is too hard it can be aided.

Pitch 2 (5.11, 105') – Follow bolts up and right to the main chimney (5.11). Continue up easier but sparsely protected terrain in the chimney until it is possible to traverse left behind a large column. Belay at the top of the column protected by a bolt and some gear.

Pitch 3 (5.9, 100') – Move down and right into the large weakness. Chimney up to super-fun flakes, climb them, and then surmount a pointed column of rock. Continue up the chimney and crack above to a two bolt belay in an alcove. Do not clip the bolts headed up and left in the final part of the pitch, these are for a separate route.

Pitch 4 (5.10, 140') – Climb the crazy-looking (but easy) chimney to a point that can be protected with #4 Camalot. Work up harder climbing to a bulge, figure out a way around it, and continue up a 5.10 groove to a roof. Traverse right under the roof to a belay stance.

Pitch 5 (5.10-, 90') – Climb a corner which is harder than it looks. Traverse right and pass under a large arch to an easy stance. Place some gear on the right side of the arch to keep the rope out of the crack, then continue up a 5.8 hand/cupped hand crack to the top. The belay takes two #4 camalots.

Descent: Use the same descent as the other climbs on this formation.

If you are interested in a topo for this route, feel free to PM me and I will send you one. You can also get one by registering at the toofasttopos website.

Location

NW face of End Pinnacle

Protection

Doubles to #4 Camalot, stoppers.

Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2018.

Photos