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Routes in End Pinnacle

Be All, End All T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cap'm Pissgums T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Days of Future Passed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Endgame T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Great Gig in the Sky T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Jimmywacky T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Magnus Veritas T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Poetry in Motion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Son of Gums T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncarved Block T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Unknown (L of Endgame) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to the Machine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 550 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dave Baker & Fig. FFA pitch one: Ray Ringle.
Page Views: 2,288 total · 41/month
Shared By: Geir on Sep 30, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Closed from March 1 to June 30 Details

Description [Edit]

This great old-school line follows the giant chimney system on the northwest face of End Pinnacle. It was originally climbed by Dave Baker using aid on the first pitch; the first pitch was later freed by Ray Ringle.

Pitch one is among the best pitches in the Stronghold. Its stemming, liebacks, and knee bars are outrageous fun and it is almost unbelievable how it climbs. The climbing remains relatively hard for the first half of pitch two until the main chimney system is gained. From here you will encounter a great diversity of classic Stronghold climbing including chimneys, bulges, corners, stems, cracks, traverses, and even an arch. The gear is sparse in places.

Pitch 1 (5.11+, 90') – Amazing climbing up a groove protected by gear and bolts. Singles to #4 camalot and stoppers with an extra .5” cam is plenty of gear for this pitch. Note: If you want to do this climb but think the first pitch is too hard it can be aided.

Pitch 2 (5.11, 105') – Follow bolts up and right to the main chimney (5.11). Continue up easier but sparsely protected terrain in the chimney until it is possible to traverse left behind a large column. Belay at the top of the column protected by a bolt and some gear.

Pitch 3 (5.9, 100') – Move down and right into the large weakness. Chimney up to super-fun flakes, climb them, and then surmount a pointed column of rock. Continue up the chimney and crack above to a two bolt belay in an alcove. Do not clip the bolts headed up and left in the final part of the pitch, these are for a separate route.

Pitch 4 (5.10, 140') – Climb the crazy-looking (but easy) chimney to a point that can be protected with #4 Camalot. Work up harder climbing to a bulge, figure out a way around it, and continue up a 5.10 groove to a roof. Traverse right under the roof to a belay stance.

Pitch 5 (5.10-, 90') – Climb a corner which is harder than it looks. Traverse right and pass under a large arch to an easy stance. Place some gear on the right side of the arch to keep the rope out of the crack, then continue up a 5.8 hand/cupped hand crack to the top. The belay takes two #4 camalots.

Descent: Use the same descent as the other climbs on this formation.

If you are interested in a topo for this route, feel free to PM me and I will send you one. You can also get one by registering at the toofasttopos website.

Location [Edit]

NW face of End Pinnacle

Protection [Edit]

Doubles to #4 Camalot, stoppers.

Photos

Clay Mansfield
  5.11d
Clay Mansfield  
  5.11d
First pitch is a Rockfellow Gem.

Pitches 2-5 are shits-and-giggles, blue-collar climbing. Sep 30, 2013
Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ
Angel Mangual   Sierra Vista, AZ
I always wondered about that line every time I went to the RockFellow. Thank you for putting the beta up. It looks amazing! Oct 2, 2013
jbak .
tucson,az
jbak .   tucson,az
Geir... awesome topo and photos. Thanks.

Clay... I don't know what "blue-collar-climbing" means, but I like the phrase ! Oct 3, 2013
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Thanks Angel and John!

I got a good laugh out of the term "blue-collar climbing". Very clever Clay. The chimneys and cracks on the upper pitches are a lot more physical and labor intensive than Cochise face and slab climbs. Set aside some extra time on this one. The climb is definitely worth it, though. Oct 4, 2013
Broken bolt!!!!!!!!!!

The first bolt of pitch 2 broke yesterday. This bolt was about 2' above the first pitch anchor. The bolt seems like it was used mostly to avoid a factor 2 fall onto the anchor. The climbing to the next bolt is not so difficult, so the route is still doable.

The leader hung on the bolt to help in the transition to leave the anchor. About four bolts up the leader fell on a new bolt at the crux. The rope straightening out broke the bolt that he had hung on moments before. I can't imagine it took more than 50lbs of outward pressure on the bolt to break it. Yikes!!!!!

The bolt stud is now sitting about 1/4 inch out of the rock. The bolt broke at the first thread. The bolt had no fresh metal look where it broke. It was rusted completely through.

This did not make me feel reassured on the strength of bolts in general. I think this was a 3/8" bolt with a metolius hanger, not some sketchy 1/4" bolt or an old bolt with a SMC hanger. The bolt and nut were very rusted, but I would have considered this to be a good bolt.

On a lighter note this was a good climb. The rock in the middle of the climb is rather flakey. I would recommend a helmet because it is very hard to avoid knocking off these potato chip flakes.
Jan 1, 2015
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Hey climberz,

Glad you are OK.

That bolt was one of the original 3/8" split shafts. It was a commonly-placed bolt in the Stronghold during the time of the FA of this route. In many cases, the Leeper hangers that were originally used were later replaced with newer hangers.

Steve Grossman reported at the Granitica Festival in March 2014 that some of these aged bolts are prone to failure in a fashion similar to what you are describing. I and others are working on replacing these bolts; until they are swapped out exercise caution when using them.

It sounds like the upper bolt in this picture is the one that broke.

Jan 1, 2015
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
Glad you all are ok Climberz!

Could this be a mixed metals/galvanic corrosion scenario? Fairly big difference between the rust levels on hanger and bolt. Possibly galvanized or stainless hanger and carbon steel bolt? Jan 5, 2015
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
Hey Daryl,

I think that is part of the problem. The hanger was stainless. My understanding is that the original hangers on this climb were swapped out in 1996, so there was 19 years for mixed metal problems to run their course. Jan 5, 2015
Thank for the responses.
Have you guys ever broke a bolt? This really took me buy surprise. The metolious hanger is usually a happy sight.
Geir, yes that is the bolt in question. One of the two anchor bolts had the same extremely rusty look to it. It is equipped with a metolious rap hanger. Luckily (and thanks to the person who put the other bolt in) the upper bolt in the anchor is new with no visible corrosion. Thanks to the tucson locals for doing such a good job of keeping up your crags. Jan 6, 2015
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
hey climberz,

The two old rusted bolts were the original anchor. The newer bolt and chain was added in order to make an easy lower off from the first pitch; this was done by the same person who swapped the Metolius rap hanger on to the remaining old bolt.

Fortunately, failures of the old 3/8" split shafts have been rare to this point. Still, they will be swapped out as quickly as possible.

The good news is that it is possible to pull these bolts cleanly, re-drill the hole to 1/2", and install a stainless sleeve bolt (thanks ASCA) or Legacy bolt. Replacing existing bolts using the same hole (rather than adding additional bolts) is the preferred option as it eliminates the need to drill new holes. Jan 6, 2015
J tot
Tempe, AZ
J tot   Tempe, AZ
Beat my way up this thing with "Nate from Newnewfoundland" two days ago. I have any question for anyone who knows. The bolts leading left off at the start of P4 and/or the chicken heads out to the left here. What is this route? Feb 6, 2017
wrt bolts leading off to the left from P4: Back in the mid-late 1990's SA and his french buddy did some climbing on the wall between Capn Pisgums and Be All End All. They may have never been "finished" a route b/c there were empty bolt holes down low along the huge zigzaggy roof (and it's not listed on MP!). Maybe they used Be All End All to access the upper wall and set up their top-rope anchors. SA said it was way beyond my ability. May 31, 2017
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
 
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
 
All of the old hardware on this route has been replaced as of January, 2018--that means new hangers hiding old bolts, and the old bolts themselves. Thanks to CASA and the ASCA for supplying equipment and hardware. A key crimp on the second pitch's retrobolted .11 slab traverse section broke on us, upping the difficulty and very possibly "restoring" the original tension traverse for most parties. We also cleaned up much of the choss around the second pitch flake and chimney system. Happy Climbing! Feb 5, 2018

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