Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Thug Daddy Tacomang|
|Page Views:||353 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||TacoDelRio on Sep 30, 2013|
|Admins:||jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionI rope soloed this route, so the description, gear, rating, etc reflect that. I gave it a Grade II rating, though a small team familiar with bad rock could climb this much faster than myself having to do all the work associated with rope soloing.
Anywho, this route heads up the right side of Sheep Canyon, left of Kimchi Ridge, past Sheep Canyon Spire. The terrain is kinda complicated looking, but really if you go to the base of the headwall and go up the right side on the easy looking slabs below Sheep Canyon Spire, the climbing is obvious. Go too far right and you'll be in some class 3 looking super loose gully. To the left is much steeper and often difficult to protect ground. Follow the best line up.
P1: ~100ft easy slab to tree anchor
P2: ~200ft+ past Sheep Canyon Spire to tree anchor in low-angle slab/mini dihedral thing
P3: ~100ft up right facing dihedral with easy slab
The two 'cruxes':
1. To the right of Sheep Canyon Spire, a 10ft long section of kinda insecure 5.8ish.
2. Start of last pitch, 5.7ish up a right facing dihedral then moving right over easy slab with crappy fall potential.
Be careful of loose rock, especially at belays. I got rid of a lot of more dangerous blocks (usually on purpose), but the whole place is very loose.
FWIW, a 5.8 here is different from a 5.8 elsewhere due to the loose rock. It's a little more mental. Same gymnastic level.