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Routes in Hole in the Wall

Another Pair of New Shoes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Birth of the Cool T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Body Nazi T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dr Jeckle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
End of My Rope T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Insane Clown Posse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Miss Piggy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mouth of a Sailor S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Hyde T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Occasional Freshman T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Paydirt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rastafari T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sailor Slang S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senior Prom S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sister Sledge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sophmoric Sandbag T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Strike It Rich T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three Little Birds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: Karl Kiser, Bryan Pletta, Noah Monagle & Tina Nenoff, Fall 2013
Page Views: 559 total, 11/month
Shared By: Karl Kiser on Sep 29, 2013
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Climb a hand crack and face up to the first bolt, the next section (the crux) trending left requires several small cams in small cracks to the second bolt. Step right and again climb up past the third bolt, then trend right to the fourth bolt on the way to the anchor. There is a super stopper placement below some blocky handholds on the way to the fourth bolt. Don't pass up gear placements.

Location

Climb starts at the toe about ten yards downhill of Paydirt in a hand sized crack. Rap the route.

Protection

Gear and bolts. Take a light rack: small to medium wires to a black Metolius cam (an additional gold Camalot can protect the start), three blue Metolius cams are useful in the small cracks, many standard trad draws. Bolts and chains at the top.

Photos

Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.10a
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.10a
Nice addition to HitW. Good rock and enjoyable movement. Bolts (including anchors) were helpful but not always where I wanted them, and the second has to do the cruxes after unclipping them - facing significant swing potential on the traverses. Sep 4, 2017
Kerr Adams
Albuquerque, NM
  5.9+
Kerr Adams   Albuquerque, NM
  5.9+
This is pretty fun climb! I found purple TCU's to work better in the thin crack after the first bolt. Blue TCU's do work but the purple cams can get in a little deeper. Aug 23, 2017
Mia A
5.9+
Mia A  
5.9+
Beta: I started the climb directly under the roof visible in the pictures and went straight up to the painted first bolt near the roof. Jun 30, 2015