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Routes in Blob's Your Uncle

Clubs Full Of Jacks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drunk Monkey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elysian Fields S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ganja In The Gully S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Greg's Bear Hug S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Higher Heights S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lion Paw S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Puffin On The Porch S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Weapons In The Wrong Hands S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: James Garrett, Tristan Higbee 4/29/2009
Page Views: 2,419 total, 48/month
Shared By: Scott H. on Sep 29, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

An interesting adventure multi-pitch sport route that ascends some unique color banded, rough, and pocketed rock.
Pitch 1 starts easy following a lower 5.6 angle past a variety of glue-ins and pitons to a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 is where this route turns on its charm with several nice well protected 5.9 moves to a ledge with a 2 bolt belay.
Pitch 3 was my favorite pitch with several nice pockets and holds with consistent 5.9 difficulty to 2 bolts, chains, and a rap ring belay.
Pitch 4 opens up to a great view of the area as it levels off near the top for a traverse to more 5.9 climbing to another 2 bolt belay.
Descent: Rappel the route

Location

Just southeast of I-80 exit 77 at the Blob crags. This is the route furthest to the left on Blobs Your Uncle when facing it from the west. Walk up the trail to the northeast from the large shooting area to the base of some broken cracks. There are 4 bolted sport routes to the right of this route.

Protection

Quick draws and a 60m rope. This route is well protected with glue-ins and bolts in addition to a variety of pitons.
For more info: see James Garrett's guidebook on Utah's West Desert
Xover  
Fun route JG; thanks for putting this up! Loved the technical, sequential crux of P2 and just the pure fun climbing of P3 - plus that belay perch is rad! Like others have posted, to bad the rock at the top of P4 didn't allow you to take the route to the top of the formation. Oct 26, 2017
This was my first multi-pitch, and it was great. The ledges that separate each of the pitch's make it very easy and comfortable to belay from. It kind of feels like a new climb each time which negates any feeling of exposure in my opinion. The fist pitch was just okay, the 3rd and 4th were personal favs. Make sure not to skip the forth pitch. It has some deep holds and fun moves (for a 5.9). On the 4th pitch you can stop at the chains or continue on to the top (maybe a couple 5.5 moves to the top) but there are no chains up there. We noticed a few bolts with missing hangars, but my guess is the rock is so bad that they were removed. Just climb back down to the chains. Nov 28, 2016
We initially walked right past this route and up to the other routes in the area. If you get to the handline and other routes you've gone way too far. Once leaving the access road and turning onto the approach trail, walk no more than 25' to the base of the route (just before the approach trail starts going uphill).

Great climb. If you're swinging leads with a partner, pitches one and three is the easier combo compared to two and four. Pitch two is the crux, particularly the final 3-4 moves up to the anchor. Mar 20, 2016
Hi Teeters, yea, I agree, it would have been nice to go to the top, but that whole upper section is hollow and rotten as I recall. Great idea to respect the Eagles nesting and caring for their young... Thanks for adding that to the comments:) Mar 15, 2016
Teeters
 
Teeters  
 
Great route! The second and fourth pitches are the most fun, IMO. The sheer size of the ledge that you start the fourth pitch from completely mitigates the exposure, which is good (or bad) because the interesting opening moves on this pitch would be quite heady if you didn't feel like you were back on the ground again. There was also some bad rock on this pitch. My only problem with this route is that the fourth pitch ends abruptly below what appears to be an easy roof that could be topped out. Are there chains above this roof? Noneoftheless, great job! Feb 29, 2016
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
  5.9
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
  5.9
Take some time to stretch out your legs on your journey home from Wendover!

The Blob crags don't look like much from I-80, but the rock is surprisingly good once its been cleaned!

  • P1 - 5.6+ climbing using drilled in bolts and glued in pitons. Upper 2/3 gets a little weird, and I found myself weaving left and right of the crack to find the path of least resistance
  • P2 - I believe this to be the most difficult of the routes. Below the last 2 or 3 bolts, the easiest line goes up and to the right, but don't take the bait as it'll leave you stranded beneath the last bolt. The best way to proceed is left of the bolt line using the arete. 5.9+
  • P3 - Stellar pitch up nice pockets. Consistent 5.9 climbing all the way through. The top of P3 puts you on top of a great ledge. Perfect time to enjoy a snack. Walking off is a possibility at this point.
  • P4 - Another fun route! Head up through nice pockets again until the last 2 bolts. Go left at the roof to avoid all the dirty rock. Long draws for the last few bolts will lessen the rope drag.
Nov 1, 2014