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Cooney-Norton

5.10b, Trad, 320 ft (97 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.5 from 15 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Adirondacks > A: Lake Champla… > Poke-O-Moonshine > Poke-O-Moonshine Main…
Warning Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues DetailsDrop down

Description

I only did P1 but the climb continues for 2 more pitches.
The route is not nearly as dirty as it looks. In fact it was remarkably clean.

P1: Climb up unprotected but easy and get established between two opposing corners. Hard stemming past a pin. Continue until it's possible to move up and right through a series of slashes. Make an unprotected foot traverse right, into a left facing corner. Climb up to first bolt, back left to second bolt. Now you have a choice. Hard move left to a filthy but easy corner or slightly harder moves straight up with lessening difficulty as you get closer to the bolted belay. 150'.

Location

The far left end of Sting Ledge. Belay at a large flat boulder near the base or scramble up the ledge.

Protection

TCU to #2 C4.
Doubles in .3 - .75
Double ropes needed for rap.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Roberto Chiarella (Sept. 16th, 2016)
[Hide Photo] Roberto Chiarella (Sept. 16th, 2016)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Derek Doucet
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] A fantastic and under appreciated pitch. With Cosmopolitan Wall next door, one can take in two of Poko's best 5.10 pitches from the same starting ledge. Highly recommended. I'm not sure why the OP proposed a PG13 protection rating. Cooney Norton protects very well. I'd say PG bordering on G, though to be fair the bolt protecting the final moves has definitely seen better days. Sep 30, 2013
[Hide Comment] P1 is definitely the money pitch. P2 is meh. P3 is pretty good. Sep 30, 2013
rocknice2
Montreal, QC
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I changed the safety factor from PG13 to G seeing as this route is better protected than it's neighbor CW but I have to admit it didn't feel like a G. It's somewhere in between G- maybe Oct 3, 2013
Nick W
Orford, NH
[Hide Comment] This route is nothing special in my opinion, compared to some of the other routes at Poke-O. Very dirty and vegetated when I climbed it. Unlike the typical Poke-O route that might look dirty from below and then has incredible clean climbing once you get on it, this one was actually dirty! Also remember the gear being sketchy, but maybe that's because I was digging moss out of the cracks in order to place gear. I plan to go back to this route and dump a few gallons of agent orange down it. Is that allowed by the DEC? Jun 18, 2014
Derek Doucet
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] lol, Nick. Further confirmation that you and I have very different tastes in routes. This thing is superb in my opinion. To each their own! Jun 19, 2014
[Hide Comment] Yes, it's a bit dirty, and it's a little runout at the start. Even so, this an *incredible* pitch. Sustained, great moves, long, gear that appears just when you need it, and with a tricky heartbreaker crux at the top. Jun 19, 2014
Nick W
Orford, NH
[Hide Comment] Yeah I don't know. Maybe I was off route, or it was particularly overgrown when I climbed it. I remember several of the gear placements I had to dig moss out with a nut tool. I guess I'm being outnumbered here so will have to go back and climb it again - perhaps I will reconsider! Aug 26, 2014
[Hide Comment] Cool pitch (we opted for just the one). If it were in the Trapps it would get done a lot but instead feels somewhat forgotten. Adult in nature. I disagree with the suggestion that this thing is G rated, there’s some longish spaces of climbing uninterupted by pesky gear placements. The bolt protecting the last moves is beyond it’s use by date. We replaced the tat on the one modern bolt/one not so much anchor. By the looks of the slingage it’s probably been awhile since the last visitors. Probably makes sense to have something along the o replace my chord as I imagine it’ll be another long while befor somebody goes back up there. So goes Poko anymore. Sep 23, 2021
Jon Clark
Planet Earth
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Anchor has been equipped with rap rings. Jul 10, 2022
[Hide Comment] It’s a travesty the first pitch gets done so infrequently. It may look dirty, but like many poke o climbs it’s clean where it needs to be. If you’re concerned it’s to dirty then climb with a wire brush and a nut tool to clean out placements. Oct 30, 2022