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Cooney-Norton
5.10b,
Trad, 320 ft (97 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 3.5 from 15
votes
FA: unknown
New York
> Adirondacks
> A: Lake Champla…
> Poke-O-Moonshine
> Poke-O-Moonshine Main…
Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues
Details
Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Description
I only did P1 but the climb continues for 2 more pitches.
The route is not nearly as dirty as it looks. In fact it was remarkably clean.
P1: Climb up unprotected but easy and get established between two opposing corners. Hard stemming past a pin. Continue until it's possible to move up and right through a series of slashes. Make an unprotected foot traverse right, into a left facing corner. Climb up to first bolt, back left to second bolt. Now you have a choice. Hard move left to a filthy but easy corner or slightly harder moves straight up with lessening difficulty as you get closer to the bolted belay. 150'.
Location
The far left end of Sting Ledge. Belay at a large flat boulder near the base or scramble up the ledge.
Protection
TCU to #2 C4.
Doubles in .3 - .75
Double ropes needed for rap.
Montreal, QC
Orford, NH
Orford, NH
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