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Routes in Little Amphitheater

Blueberries T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My Wife's Pajamas T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Popeye Effect, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suspiciously Delicious T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 464 total · 8/month
Shared By: Matt Westlake on Sep 28, 2013
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

If you've hiked the trail from the Amphitheater and Sentinel area you've passed this route a million times and maybe wondered about it in passing. This is an obscure route with nothing but a name and number in the Kelly guide and seems a bit of a sandbag at the listed 5.7, assuming I climbed the right thing. Getting started was the hardest part by far and maybe using a pad would make protecting the start easier. Setting the pro for the opening moves was pumpy, although I could have just been making it harder than it needed to be.

It follows a crack that starts about 8 feet off the ground until it peters out and deposits you on a face. Meander up the path of least resistance and most gear, trending right (although if you go too far you'll end up on the 4th class top section of Popeye Effect). Although the opening moves are the hardest part there are still several engaging moments moving up the face, in part due to navigating the lichen, finding pro, and checking for loose rock. Eventually you end up on a decent belay ledge with a couple of small trees. Wear long sleeves or bring garden shears to tame to bramble near the trees.

You can continue up through the next short (10'?) face to a large tree to anchor and rappel from although rope drag may kill you.

Location

So I suppose this isn't precisely IN the little amphitheater, it climbs the face between Shit Hook and Popeye Effect.

Descent:
I built a belay using the small trees then did a roped scramble right and up over the next small face (10 feet?) to a decent sized tree. Previously this had a rap station but the slings were cut away as of this writing and I didn't replace them. You can rap climbers right out over the face and be deposited back into the little amphitheater near the start of Popeye Effect or scramble further up and hike up and right to join up with the trail leading down from the meat puppet crag. Probably possible to bushwhack your way to some other rap station options if you know where to look...

Protection

Standard rack up to C4 #2 or #3 ought to do it. No tiny gear needed.

Photos

Emil Briggs
  5.8
Emil Briggs  
  5.8
The moves at the bottom are fun but harder than 5.7 and I have to agree that the upper part of the route could definitely use some cleaning up ... Oct 17, 2013
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
I liked this route a ton. In the book it gets no stars, but for me it was quite worthy. The bottom moves are stout, but fair, and quite protectable. The cool thing is how this climb stays consistent at the grade, for most of its length, and offers many sequences of fun challenging moves. The top does peter out into licheny bullshit, with a nasty belay/anchor/descent scene, unfortunately.

With more traffic this will shape up into a popular, great test for the 5.7'ers out there! Sep 4, 2016

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