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Routes in Obscurity Wall

Big Balls In Cowtown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Duet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Anxiety T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Rodman
Page Views: 618 total, 12/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on Sep 28, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Big Balls In Cowtown is a unique and varied route in the Forks norm. It features exciting technical face and a steep fingers finish on an isolated buttress amongst other obscurities.

Not as runout as its neighbor to the north, the gear is good just non existent for the first 20ft off the ledge. A lucky jump back to the belay could be an option?

From the belay ledge step left through some wobble blocks and onto the clean face. Climb the unprotected technical face to the first sign of gear. Climb through a boulder problem to a mini-ledge. After a rest continue up the left leaning and steep boulder problem finish. Sporty.

Location

Start on a comfortable sized ledge 20ft off the ground; 15ft left of High Anxiety. Look for the clean face on a warping buttress.

Protection

Belay: .75 C4 x2

Gear used:
.75 C4 w/48" runner at belay
Grey #000 C3
#4 brass offset
Purple #00 C3 12" runner
Green #0 C3 12" runner
.3 C4 24" runner
Red #1 C3
.4 C4
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
People have been climbing that grade since the 70's....12- R that is. Sep 28, 2014
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
 
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
 
I actually just learned of this fact. No bubbles bursted, credit where credit is due. Damn Rodman, beast mode way ahead of his time! Setting the bar so high... Ive been chasing his standard since my first leads in Flagstaff. Best part is that I was in 6th grade when this thing got sent! That is just mind blowing... Let me guess, call it .11-?? Fucking Beast. Sep 25, 2014
Floater Bloom
Flagstaff AZ
Floater Bloom   Flagstaff AZ
Not trying to burst anyone's bubble here, but this route is called Big Balls in Cowtown and was put up around 1999 by Rodman and Bloom. It had never been recorded before, so I don't blame anyone for thinking this was an undone route. You have a great eye for new lines Jeff! Sep 25, 2014
Sweet...
looks harder than 12- though...
How many 12- have you done that make you want to puke?
(that weren't OW anyway) Oct 17, 2013
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
 
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
 
For the real nerds... here is a short video, featuring the FA, that Tamara Hastie made for Forks Fest 2013. vimeo.com/75247859 Sep 28, 2013