Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Todd Helgeson
Page Views: 1,331 total · 21/month
Shared By: Jared LaVacque on Sep 27, 2013
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route

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The crux is moving to the crimp before the jug.


On the northeast side of the Girlfriend Boulder. When facing down canyon, looking at the NE side, Psycho Ex is on the left side of the face on a corner/face. The route can be started on side-pulls and then move into the sloping rail, trending right to eventually snag the crimp before hitting the jug, OR you can start on the small sloping edge on the face, and then move up to the sloping rail, crimp and jug. Either way, both versions are sit-down starts and the grade is V8. Everybody uses different foot beta to hit the crimp. It's not as straight-forward as it looks.




Psycho Ex starts in the middle of the overhung face on the "blue" circled holds in the picture. Starting on the "red" holds is a variation done later and starts on the starting holds of "Tank Girl" and traverses into Psycho Ex. Jul 1, 2014