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Routes in Burlap Buttress

Arch Rival T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arrow Place T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Children of the Sun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
K-Day T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Millepede T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poultroonicus aka Moving Over Stone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prism Corner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Teabob T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three K T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown Mixed Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wish Bone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 393 total, 8/month
Shared By: Matt Kuehl on Sep 26, 2013
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Arch Rival is a fairly large left facing corner/arch on the South side of the Burlap Buttress.

Start in the clean cut corner and layback or jam your way up the crack. Negotiate the entrance into a wide pod and find a balance between awkward and burly climbing as the crack becomes steeper. Exit the wide pod and begin traversing left with the arch. Tricky gear in unique rock with disappearing feet make this an exciting hand traverse. Follow the arch till it ends and aim for a single bolt.

Pitch Extension - Not Recommended - Continue after the bolt climbing back right and then straight up a corner and around the right arete. This upper portion has flakey rotten rock and the gear looks poor.

Location

Across of the main wash just opposite the first few routes on the Black Velvet Wall.

Protection

Double rack to #2, Tri-cams might be useful

Photos

Matt Kuehl
Las Vegas
 
Matt Kuehl   Las Vegas
 
I posted this up as a sort of "heads up" to those intrigued by the arch like I was. It's a cool pitch that just needs a little anchor update. Good climbing, just not an ideal finish in its current state. Sep 28, 2013
Jeez, man, glad you're still with us!

PS this story is a great example of how bolts are a really bad idea in soft sandstone. They should make them illegal or something. Hope some bolt fairy adds a second up there. Based on the description, I'm avoiding this one. Sep 27, 2013
Matt Kuehl
Las Vegas
 
Matt Kuehl   Las Vegas
 
When I climbed this (a few months ago) there were two ancient fixed nuts and a bolt for the intermediate anchor. When I lowered to the ground the nuts blew the rock out and only the bolt remained in the stone. This bad rock is why I wouldn't recommend going any further than the bolt... Sure glad that bolt was there though! Sep 26, 2013