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Routes in Piccola Fermeda (Kleine Fermeda)

Normal Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft, 3 pitches
FA: J. Santner, 1884.
Page Views: 45 total · 1/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Sep 25, 2013
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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This is a very popular and heavily travelled route, which is a favorite with the local climbing schools as an introduction to longer and Alpine style rock climbs. The route starts towards the left end of the bench and ascends several steps on ledges trending towards the right. A short chimney pitch trends left arriving in a broad gully which is followed upwards until it is possible to climb another face trending towards the obvious ridge on climber's left. Follow the ridge until an overhang bars further progress and a ledge system to the right allows further progress. Climbing to this point never exceeds lower 5th class, and experienced parties will move simultaneously on much of the terrain. A short stem chimney problem constitutes the crux at UIAA Gr. III (5.3), and leads to the ridge again. Follow the ridge to the summit.
To descend, downclimb the route, and a couple rappels are possible from natural anchors and one fixed anchor for a final abseil in a shallow chimney to the starting ledge. Only 2-3 regular leads are needed for the actual ascent. Much of the route is done "on a short rope, moving simultaneously."


The climb is reached by taking the Seceda Gondoa bahn from St. Ulrich, then a marked path to Pana Scharte. Continue on a steeper and much narrower path over several rock outcrops and a few easy 5th moves to reach a grassy bench at the base of the wall.


No fixed protection, but many opportunities for natural protection by tied-off knobs and threads.
Bring longer slings for threads. A single fixed anchor is available for a rappel low on the route.


I was unable to do this route on a recent trip to the Dolomites; a major change in weather plastered the route with snow on 9 September, 2013. I made a rest day exploratory trip on the Seceda Seilbahn, and followed the approach as far as Pana-Scharte. I was primarily interested in doing the route to learn the downclimb from the 3 other very nice routes on the mountain. Sep 26, 2013
This description relies heavily on information derived from "Klettern in den Dolomiten; die schoensten Routen fuer Anfaenger und Fortgeschrittenenien, Grad III/IV" by Mauro Bernardi. Published by: Athesia, Bozen. Sep 26, 2013