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Routes in The Devil's Slide

Albion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devil's Slide, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Satan's Slip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: L P Fatti, D G Ward, 29th March 1970
Page Views: 141 total, 3/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Sep 25, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

You & This Route


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Description

The harder alternative to The Devil's Slide and one of the best slab climbs in the country! This takes a direct line up the centre of the slab, just to the right of the black streaks. The first pitch is quite easy going but above the central break, you'll soon feel the distance between yourself and your last piece of gear!

P1. From the bottom of the slide, take a direct line up the centre of the slab. Belay at the half way break.

P2. Continue up and left, skirting the black streaks on the slab, passing a small overlap at about 30 feet (if I recall correctly) until you join the corner of Albion higher up. There are perhaps two pieces of gear (small nuts or tiny cams) in the first 25m of this pitch before you reach the salvation of the corner. The climbing is easy if you just keep moving, but telling yourself that as your gear and belayer fade into the distance below you is not that easy!

British grade E1 5a.

Location

Start somewhere in the middle of the tidal ledges at the bottom of the slide.

Protection

Small stuff, until you get to the corner, where big nuts will be more appropriate.

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