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Routes in St Patrick's Buttress

Destiny T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shamrock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
rampart T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
second coming T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: T D Thompson, R D Moulton, 17th March 1972
Page Views: 25 total · 0/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Sep 25, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Description

A classic route on perfect rock, taking the central corner line of the buttress. This is the original route of the cliff, which takes its name from the first ascent of this route on St. Patrick's Day.

The start is cut off from the boulder beach above mid-tide, but could possibly be accessed by abseil if you're very accurate!

P1. Climb the corner on good jams, with faceholds where they're most needed, to a big sloping ledge. The bottom of this pitch is a bit awkward and probably the crux of the route. Flake belay to the left on the ledge.

P2. Don't continue up the same corner! Instead, from the belay step left and follow an easy jagged crack up to another big ledge (possible belay). Another, steeper corner looms above. Climb this corner, surprisingly easily, past an awkward sloping ledge to the top. Belay here then scramble out over easy ground.

Location

The big central corner of St. Patrick's Buttress.

Protection

Singles of cams and nuts should suffice. You could place more cams in the corner if you have them.

Photos

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Nick Russell
Bristol, UK
  5.7
Nick Russell   Bristol, UK
  5.7
VS 4c in British grades. Sep 30, 2013

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