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Routes in Central (Blooming Rose, Claim Jumper, and Winchester Walls)

Aces and Eights S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Annie Git Yer Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brown Dirt Cowgirl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chubs4U S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Claim Jumper S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cowboys Are My Only Weakness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Give my Love to Rose S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Greenhorns in Velvet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Iron Horse with a Twisted Heart S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lever Action S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Matilda's Last Waltz S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Medicine Show (1st pitch) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Miner's Delight S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Never Sit With Your Back to the Door S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Phat Phinger Phrenzy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Rider S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Red as a Blooming Rose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Roll in the Hay S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spaghetti Western S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stacked Deck S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Buffalo S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a V11 8A
Winchester Pump S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, Boulder, 19 ft
FA: BJ Tilden, 1998
Page Views: 937 total, 18/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Sep 24, 2013
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

The White Buffalo is a stunning, house-sized boulder nestled among the pines of the Wild Iris campground. The virtually flawless southeast face overhangs about 5 degrees, and is among the most beautiful panels of limestone in the Lander area.

Although obviously lacking in length, this line features 7 or 8 sustained, difficult moves, making this climb as continuous as many of the other .13+ lines at Wild Iris. The climbing itself is outstanding, though out of character, utlizing miniscule edges and only a few pockets.

Begin with the only easy moves on the route, up an obvious flake feature. Work right to a diagonal rail, then a pair of long cranks to polished edges. The crux comes at the second bolt, with an insecure sequence to reach a deep pocket. A few desparate moves off slippery feet lead to the lip. It should take longer to read this page than it will to send the line!

Location

The White Buffalo sits atop the fourth (or so) campground on the left side of the road, or about 100-feet south of the Blooming Rose Wall.

Protection

This 3-bolt route has been bouldered with a hefty stack of crash pads, but most folks will be happy to clip the bolts. 1-bolt anchor, or 4th-class down-climb of the east arete.

Photos

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