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Logic Bomb

5.12, Trad, 110 ft (33 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 9 votes
FA: John Crawley, Joel Unema 2013
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Oak Creek Canyon > Waterfall > 2. The Main Amphithea…

Description

"a piece of code intentionally inserted into a software system that will set off a malicious function when specified conditions are met"

A well-rounded climber may have what it takes to meet the conditions specified by this demanding route. Prepare to stem, palm, press, pull roofs, and bear down on this versatile and incredible route. When the conditions are met, detonate the logic bomb.

Location

The logic bomb was dropped between False Prophet and Broken Chain. Begin as broken chain, climbing moderate terrain to a stem-box capped by a roof. Where Broken Chain exits right of the roof, Logic Bomb pulls the left side of the roof to gain the beautiful corner above. The climb continues with stemming and pressing up the corner to the second roof, where it exits right, following the final bolts to reach the anchor.

Protection

Logic Bomb is protected by gear and 5 bolts. Gear should include a set of medium-large nuts, a single set of cams from 0 BD to #3 Camalot with doubles in tips sizes. The route ends at a two-bolt anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] It was rad to see both the FA and the 2nd ascent go down with such precision. History in the making.... Sep 26, 2013
Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
  5.12
[Hide Comment] An engaging route with cool features and great movement. Not to be missed. When I climbed it I didn't feel the need to place for about the first 30 feet . In the end I only needed a single rack to .5 and a #3. Also a medium /large nut and 6 draws Sep 30, 2013
Chris Kalman
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Assuming the #3 is to protect the start, I'd recommend a #4 instead.

Q: at the roof down low, I ended up getting drawn way left, all the way to False Prophet. I climbed back right into the dihedral proper for a move or two, but then went back hard left again to holds out there, as the dihedral itself seemed blank and way harder than the grade. Is that how the route is intended to be climbed? Or is there some super tech way to go straight up the dihedral? Dec 23, 2020