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Routes in Scheelite Wall

Catholic Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chips Off the Ol' Block T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Core Blimey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jeremy Freeman, Greg Smith
Page Views: 1,104 total · 21/month
Shared By: old5ten on Sep 23, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

P1-start up into the pod and transition (5.9) into the short, splitter, thin hands crack, which gets easier a bit higher up. Traverse right at the (or just before the) orange dike. This section has poor pro, but is relatively low key. Gear anchor at the base (sandy ledge) of the pinnacle.

P2-head up the short, easy crack between pinnacle and wall to the top of the pinnacle, then face climb a short section up to a bolt and short diagonal section (5.9). Continue up the wide flare with a perfect finger crack in the back (5.8). Traverse diagonal up and right to some bushes for 10' and belay (gear/natural).

P3-step diagonally right across a small bush and gain a perfect, low angle, easy hand crack (SWEET!). Go up and traverse slightly left via a lieback and gain a short (easy) fat crack. At the top of the fat section continue for a few feet, but then traverse up and right out onto the slab (look for the first bolt, watch rope drag). Pass a horizontal and two more bolts to the top of the pillar (good stance and bolted belay). It is possible to look down onto Chips from the middle of the slab section on this pitch (around the 2nd bolt) and the whole pitch presents incredible fun climbing.

This is the end of the route and it is possible to rap 'Chips Off The Ol' Block'. However, the route can be extended to climb the 4th pitch of 'Chips Off The Ol' Block' as shown on the topo. This is a pretty natural continuation.

P4(Chips)-from the P3 anchor climb up past two large holes into a shallow, right trending corner, just left of a large bush. Poor pro, some decking potential. Gain and surmount the small lip (5.9)and lieback/face climb up a shallow left facing corner/flake to a thin horizontal. Continue up on easy face (thin pro), pass another bush on the left and continue up a perfect thin hands crack to a horizontal. The short face section above is unprotected, but several choices in the 5.6-5.8 range exist. Two bolt anchor.

'Core Blimey' is an excellent route with a variety of climbing, including some stellar, straight-in, thin hand cracks (that are unfortunately short). If this route was in the Valley it would be as popular as 'Central Pillar of Frenzy' or any of the other classics in that general grade range.

I would not call this a good beginner's route because it is solid 5.9, has a stout fat flare/finger crack on P2, and sports poor/no pro in several sections, mainly the traverse on P1 and if the continuation on P4 (Chips) is climbed as shown on the topo pic.

Location

'Core Blimey' is the right of two cracks about 50' left of 'Chips Off The Ol' Block'. Follow the approach for Chips, then scramble around a small boulder to the left. Traverse further left on sandy ledges and slightly up to the striking hand crack that has a pod just below.

Protection

Standard rack (doubles) to 2", one or two 3-3.5" pieces optional to protect a short fat section on P3.

Photos

Dave Livingston
BISHOP
 
Dave Livingston   BISHOP
 
At first blush, I wasn't keen on this route. It's kinda of dirty, it has friable rock and you have to climb (more like tunnel) through multiple bushes while on the thing. But that's part of the appeal. It's got a wild alpine feel, but is only 30 minutes from the road. To boot, the actually climbing is tough and scrappy, which, with the route's condition makes it a memorable outing. Take a break from the mustache wall and get some adventure. Jun 17, 2016
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
 
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
 
This was a really fun route, good variety of climbing. I thought pitch 2 could've used another bolt off the pillar, but it's safe enough. Pitch 3 was pimp! May 31, 2016

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