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Beta Male

5.12d, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 14 votes
FA: Mike Snyder, 2013
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > Dry Wall > After 5 Crag
Warning Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT DetailsDrop down

Description

Climbs the same corner as The Morrigan but the bolt line is to the right. step onto the face after 20' and climb positive crimps up to the small roof. Pull through this tricky feature to a big side pull at the base of a blank section. I cleaned some tiny features going straight up but alternately found that going left to two small crimps and an all-points-off dyno for the biggest hold on the route was the way to go. Rest here if you need it as the route tips back a bit for the next 30' before offering any decent pauses again. The last 30' is no walk in the park either so save a little for the end. Finishes at the ledge just right of the roof. This is a long route and may require a 70 meter rope, though I had 30' of my 70m rope on the ground when all was said and done. Please use caution and tie a knot in the end of your cord if you're using a 60m.

I really thought this one would be a .13a with the dyno and the overall length. What do you think?

Location

Between The Morrigan to the left and Whiskey Gina to the right. This monster ascends the face between the two crack climbs and faces down canyon. It is roughly right above the parking area (pull out #5).

Protection

14 clips, sport anchor

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Pat Mac
Bishop, CA
  5.12+
[Hide Comment] Such a rad line. Thanks for the work on this one. May 11, 2020
Pandy Fackler
Boulder, CO
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] No dyno necessary. From the left side pull/undercling hold, there is a bit of a reach straight up to a right hand mono, and then a left hand crimp. Build your feet up and make a somewhat big move to a blocky hold for the left, and the jug will then be right at eye level. This does take you a touch to the left of the bolt line (though you’re still within arms reach), but it flows well, and best of all avoids a dyno - unless you like to dyno. Jul 31, 2020
Laura Tociu
Las Vegas, NV
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Beta video: youtube.com/watch?v=gHX1pM4…

Loved this pitch, and I didn't dread a single move on it when I sent. Just perfect flowy climbing. Sep 2, 2024