Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Mike Snyder, 2013 |
Page Views: | 1,562 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Mike Snyder on Sep 23, 2013 |
Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Climbs the same corner as The Morrigan but the bolt line is to the right. step onto the face after 20' and climb positive crimps up to the small roof. Pull through this tricky feature to a big side pull at the base of a blank section. I cleaned some tiny features going straight up but alternately found that going left to two small crimps and an all-points-off dyno for the biggest hold on the route was the way to go. Rest here if you need it as the route tips back a bit for the next 30' before offering any decent pauses again. The last 30' is no walk in the park either so save a little for the end. Finishes at the ledge just right of the roof. This is a long route and may require a 70 meter rope, though I had 30' of my 70m rope on the ground when all was said and done. Please use caution and tie a knot in the end of your cord if you're using a 60m.
I really thought this one would be a .13a with the dyno and the overall length. What do you think?
I really thought this one would be a .13a with the dyno and the overall length. What do you think?
Photos
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