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Routes in The Black Wall

Ant Farm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Cannonball Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cary Granite T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coffee Achievers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Emerald Highway, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Escape Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Espresso T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good Evans T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Harry Cary T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Variance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Rappel Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Parallel Universe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 R
Phil-a-Guster T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rainbow Highway T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Road Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rusty Dagger, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Seven Sins (linkup of S.O.A.S into H.V.) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Sinners On Sunday T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0
Undertow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4- R
Undertow (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1-
Type: Trad, Alpine, 480 ft, 3 pitches
FA: M. Reeser & M. Smith 9/21/2013
Page Views: 1,672 total · 32/month
Shared By: dameeser on Sep 23, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a tips to fingers variation into the roof pitch of Cary Granite. Instead of traversing in from atop the 2nd pitch of Cary Granite, traverse in from the 2nd pitch of Good Evans.

P1: Climb the first pitch of Good Evans, but belay atop the flake. The belay takes hand-sized pieces (5.10d).

P2: Climb the first 10-15 feet of the Good Evans crack until you can traverse left on a good rail. Then climb the tips to fingers crack into the Cary Granite roof and beyond (5.11).

P3: Climb to the top (5.10).

Although you don't get to climb the great p2 corner of Cary Granite, you do get to climb a great finger crack! The traverse into the crack is nowhere near as hard as the traverse in from the original route (probably 5.9).

Protection

Use the same as for Cary Granite, but add some RPs and finger-sized pieces for the variation.

Photos

dameeser
denver
 
dameeser   denver
 
Yikes. I cleaned that section a little and I thought I got it all. A storm was rolling in, so I was a little rushed. I'm glad no one was hurt. Sep 4, 2014
Brett Merlin
Boulder, CO
Brett Merlin   Boulder, CO
Knocked off a loose large v-chunk on the Harry Cary finger crack through the bulge. All it took was a heel strike kick from above. The crack is now much safer than before. I think it protects well with 0.75s. Enjoy! Sep 4, 2014
Nice job, boys!!! This sounds pretty cool! Sep 27, 2013