PRINT: Rock Climb Tupper-Where, Santa Fe Area

Tupper-Where

5.11c/d, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3 from 13 votes
FA: Mike Tupper
New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Shack > Main Wall

Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details

Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.

Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.

Description

I felt this climb, just left of Fire on the Mountain, was the best fully bolted climb at the Shack under 5.12. Good rock, and a sustained crux on a tricky arête made it rewarding. The slab face passing the last couple of bolts has some lichen but it's no big deal.

Location

Bolted line 10' left of Fire on the Mountain.

Protection

Bolts to fixed bolted anchors. (10 bolts? I didn't count.)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Keith Beckley on <br>
Tupper-Where (5.11+)

Keith Beckley on Tupper-Where (5.11+)

Starting the crux<br>
Tupper-Where (5.11+)

Starting the crux Tupper-Where (5.11+)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM

I was talking with Mike today and the name should be
Tupper-Where - 5.11+ seems a good grade since the general consensus seems to think its harder than most of the .11s but not 5.12
FA Mike Tupper Sep 29, 2013

Logan Peterson
Santa Fe, NM

Heads-up: one of the hangers in the middle of the route has a less-than-ideal orientation. Protrusion of rock just left of the hanger makes it challenging to clip and remove a typical biner. I was able to bend hanger by hand and retrieve my draw. Folks doing maintenance might see about either swapping the hanger for something larger, bending the hanger to the right with channel locks, or removing the protrusion with a few hammer blows. In the meantime, leaders might consider packing a low-profile biner to make this easier. Fun route, and safe with a competent belayer. Jul 16, 2021