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He's Got Marty Feldman Eyes

5.10a, Trad, Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.2 from 9 votes
FA: E.C. Joe, Veronica Hawke and Vaughn Schultz, July '89
California > Sequoia & Kings… > Chimney Rocks > Crystal Wall
Warning Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures DetailsDrop down

Description

The is a fun face/slab route that eases up the higher you go.

Pitch 1: Follow about six bolts a full rope length up to a two bolt belay. The crux down low is protected well with three bolts but they're more spaced out above and can be supplemented with a few .5-2" pieces. 5.10-

Pitch 2: Rap with two ropes or climb up to the right of a groove past a couple old bolts until you feel comfortable walking off. 5.5

Location

From the approach, walk a short ways along the base past an 8' left arching crack. The bolted route left of this crack is the start. If you get to two softball sized pockets 6' off the ground you're one route too far.

Protection

Half a dozen draws and a few small to medium cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

There's the start
[Hide Photo] There's the start
Jonathan part way up the first pitch.
[Hide Photo] Jonathan part way up the first pitch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I seem to recall the crux was down low but there wasn't a bolt there to protect it. But that was in 1997. Memory is a little fuzzy. Sep 30, 2019