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Routes in Carchost

Narsil S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Shagrat S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Dave Rone, Trent Slichter, Denise Hardesty, Jim Slichter
Page Views: 305 total, 6/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Sep 20, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

(Originally named Anduril, but name taken) Mantle onto a ledge to clip the first bolt, then work up and right to some really big knobs where you can get the fixed pin. Continue up to a bolt then move right (crux) to better holds and and another bolt. From here it is a very long runout (5.7-5.8) to a good ledge and the next bolt. Continue to the top passing a couple more bolts along the way.

The route was done ground-up, some drilling was done from hooks, and was completed on the second effort. The first attempt failed when a handhold broke off, resulting in a 35' fall from 40' up, as well as lots of blood, stitches, and rock rash. Second effort went much better, but the route needs one more bolt.

The sword Narsil was broken in the overthrow of Sauron at the end of the Second Age.

Location

The route is on the north side of Carchost. The easiest approach is to hike about 75' downhill from Goldberry Lane and then veer left to the route, which climbs up just right of the obvious corner.

Protection

Take 8 draws for bolts and a few long slings for horns and knobs. There is a rappel anchor on top.

Photos

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Mike Madsen
Rapid City
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
that's the name of the route! Thanks Willy I was just waiting for someone to say it. Awesome sustained route. Willy seems to have infinite knowledge on this place!!!??? :) Aug 19, 2014
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
You most likely climbed Shagrat, 5.10+ FA Paul Muehl and Pete DeLannoy 7/10/83. It's listed as being on the middle/north side of Carchost. Aug 19, 2014
Mike Madsen
Rapid City
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
I'm thinking of the corner route. Is this route in the middle of the face then I know it. Aug 19, 2014
Dave Rone
Eau Claire, Wis
 
Dave Rone   Eau Claire, Wis  
 
There is no summit register at the top of Narsil. Aug 19, 2014
Mike Madsen
Rapid City
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
Summit register says FA Paul Muehl, Pete Delannoy July 10, 1983? Aug 18, 2014