Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,373 total · 22/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 20, 2013
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Start on the left side sitting down. The is a good foot way to the left and very slopey holds heading up right. Make a few moves right before popping big to a decent arete way out right. Bear hug a few moves until you can gain a hollow jug and climb on top.

Sloper skills with a side of explosive power will be the recipe for this little number.

Location

A bit tricky to find but it is just down in to the talus from the left end of the cliff. Not quite as far over as Heat Wave but close.

Easiest to find by walking past Numb Thumb and continue scrambling toward the left end of the cliff. Check out the pics so you know what you are looking for.

Protection

A few pads and a spotter.

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8
Sweet Lee, I'm glad you posted this up. This is an excellent problem!! As you said, it's very unique movement. It starts out like a classic Pway sloper traverse, but suddenly requires a very unique dyno move.

I captured some video footage of this problem a few weeks ago. I'll be posting it up at some point as part of a larger video. Sep 20, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8
PS- If you have Keith's contact info, can you tell him that he left his chalk bag at the Trailside Boulder at Blair Woods when we were climbing there together the other day. I didn't know how to get in touch with him so I just left it there, thinking that he would remember he left it there. Thanks! Sep 20, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  V8
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  V8
right on, ill let him know...
cant wait to get on this problem personally... im just healing a few tweaks at the moment... Sep 21, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8
Footage of this problem begins at 1:10

vimeo.com/79334560 Nov 16, 2013
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
 
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
 
Friendly holds, great movement, should be more popular! Oct 10, 2014
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V8-
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V8-
I got some pretty good footage and beta for this awesome problem! youtube.com/watch?v=fFYZ6qN… Nov 23, 2015
Tyler Moody  
 
This climb is incredibly fun and well worth the hike through the talus field. Every hold is good (include the hollow jug, while it lasts) and the feet are great by Pawtuckaway standards. Good conditions might make it feel easier, especially for taller climbers. Dec 19, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  V8
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  V8
I've gotta try some of these "good conditions" you speak of... I'm tall and found it plenty stout! great work! Dec 21, 2015
A good chunk of the RH start hold broke off this past weekend...seems like it probably still goes the same, though. Apr 26, 2016
Graham O.
  V8+
Graham O.  
  V8+
Cool but really hard, you can't even pull on midway through because the holds are too bad to get off the ground! Amazingly dangerous for how short it is, but the climbing was very worthwhile. Sep 4, 2016