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Routes in Bag of Brushes Boulder

Buell Kazee V1-2 5
Staggolee V5- 6C
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Mike Robinson 9/13
Page Views: 61 total · 1/month
Shared By: Mike Robinson on Sep 18, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Start by stemming, then crunch up and pass through the constriction with chimney like moves, get a hand jam and drop into the crack. Continue along the crack and pull out and up to finish. There is a crux moving into the crack and then coming out of the crack and topping out.

Staggolee is a great route that will utilize much of your climbing knowledge.

Location

The off width underneath the boulder. Start the route on the other side of the constriction.

Protection

Pad

Photos

Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I climbed Staggolee the other day and thought it was a fun, unique route. I first did the route the original way, with a stem start on the other side of the chimney, through the chimney, and then I used the right low boulder for my feet all the way to the lip. When you go through the chimney, you use the right boulder against your back, so as long as the chimney is part of the problem, it makes sense that the right low boulder is on for the rest of the problem. This way felt fun and about V3.

Then I did a variation that keeps the right low boulder off for the whole problem. You start at the very bottom of the crack with a hand jam. Then you use tricky feet to eventually get your feet jammed up in the roof crack. I thought the topout was quite a bit harder this way because you have to deal with the pump factor. This variation felt more V5 to me.

Either way you do it, this is a fun problem that's a welcome change from the sharp crimping found on many of the other problems nearby. If your skin is torched, this is a great place to end the day. Sep 30, 2013