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Le Toit de Ben

5.13a, Trad, 2 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 7 votes
FA: FA: Bernard Poisson (September 21st, 1958) FFA: François Roy (August 30, 1987)
International > N America > Canada > Quebec > 15. Laurentides > Val-David > Mont-King > 1. Amphitheatre
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Description

The obvious crack splitting a 10m long horizontal roof just right of the Amphitheatre. 

This world class route has it all: feet first climbing, a bat hang, an enduro section on good hand jams, and a powerful lip. It also protects well. 

It was first aided in 1958 by Bernard Poisson using home made wooden pieces as protection. 30 years went by without anyone managing to free the route until the sequence was unlocked in 1987 by François Roy. It then stood as the park's hardest line for another decade. 

Many climbers spend weeks rehearsing the pro and the moves, this route is a serious undertaking.

Location

On the right of the Ampitheater slab, climb up the corner leading into L'Éclair, then traverse right to the belay of Ben's Roof

Protection

Bolted belays.

Standard rack up to #3, double in small sizes

It is useful to (pre)place a big nut (wild country 11 or equivalent) inverted (wire up) at the end of the roof to prevent the rope from getting inside the crack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The day I sent the roof!
[Hide Photo] The day I sent the roof!
Amphitheatre
[Hide Photo] Amphitheatre
Amazing jams!
[Hide Photo] Amazing jams!
Nearing the lip on the send go!
[Hide Photo] Nearing the lip on the send go!
In all its glory
[Hide Photo] In all its glory
Amphitheatre
[Hide Photo] Amphitheatre

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jerome St-Michel
Montreal, QUÉBEC
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] An edit of my redpoint!
vimeo.com/288353093 Sep 5, 2018
Paul Passot
Montréal
  5.13a
Lucas Hamilton B
Montreal, QC