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Crushed Velvet

5.10c, Trad, 160 ft (48 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 19 votes
FA: Aidan Maguire & Scott Bye, 1998
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Sugarloaf Area > Sugarloaf > E Face

Description

Climb Farley for about ~30'. Place #2 camalot and step left onto the face. Follow 7 Bolts past sustained, excellent knob climbing. At first bolt can go left or right of bolt. Some occasionally use the right arete as an option. 

All bolts replaced 4/9/24. New anchor at 35m allows TR set up

Can still be climbed to the old anchor. Needs 2 add QD's and optional small/med nut or cam below last bolt. If climbing to old anchor, lower or rap to Farley anchor end of P1

Easy to climb additional 40 feet of low 5th class above original anchor  to end on the large ledge which is end of pitch 2 of Farley if going to the summit

Location

On the knobby face, directly left of Farley.

Protection

7 bolts to the new 35m anchor. Gear and extendable slings for bottom of Farley including a #2 Camalot where the climbing leaves Farley to step on to Crushed Velvet. Can lower and TR from 35m anchor.

2 extra draws and one option small/med nut or cam below the last bolt if going to old anchor. 

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aidan Maguire
Placerville, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Quality. Classic knob sequencing unusual for Sugarloaf.
Bolts replaced and new anchor at 35 m for TR with 70 Dec 29, 2017
WillF
Sacramento
 
[Hide Comment] I would recommend extending some of the bolts. Especially if you sling the obvious knob between bolts. Feb 8, 2021