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Crushed Velvet

5.10c, Trad, 160 ft,  Avg: 3 from 14 votes
FA: Aidan Maguire & Scott Bye, 1998
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Sugarloaf Area > Sugarloaf > E Face

Description

Start on Farley. Big knobs lead out of the crack and onto the face to the first bolt. For the first couple bolts, climb the sustained knobs while occasionally using the right arete to advance upward. Things get cruxy around the fourth bolt, as the knobs get smaller and less positive and the bolt spacing increases. After about 100', the angle of the slab decreases and friction becomes your best friend.

Location

On the knobby face, directly left of Farley.

Protection

9 draws for each of the bolts, plus a few extendables for the first few gear placements. Single set of cams from 1"-3". Optional .6" cam (e.g. green alien or blue master cam) can be used high on the route in a horizontal.

Two bolt anchor with chains. From here, either join Farley to the summit, rap with TWO ropes straight to the ground, or do two single rope raps by using the Opus 7 anchor to the right of Farley (100' rap to here), or the Blue Velvet anchor (60' rap to here).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] medium nut for the top is key
First 50 feet on the face is classic knob sequencing Dec 29, 2017