PRINT: Climb Prophecy, North Shore

Prophecy

V5, Boulder, 13 ft (4 m),

Avg: 3 from 17 votes
FA: Pete Otis
Massachusetts > N Shore > Cape Ann > Dykes Pond (Glo… > N Side > Remnant Boulder… > Prophecy Boulder

Description

This problem has had a convoluted history. The original posted problem was a really low sit start on the steep arête/face.The problem began with an extremely low left hand side pull out on the left face and a slightly higher right hand tiny crimp on the arête. Move up and match on the crimpy feature on the arête. Then move up and top out. Look at the first posted photo from Blake D. to see the original start holds. That beta is solid V5-6. Starting higher eases the grade but still a cool problem.

Location

This is at the far left end of the Remnants area.

Protection

Pad.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

From the sit

Zoomed out view

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Zac Clark
NH

I can start this with a high right on the gaston already which makes it feel much easier than V7. Probably V4 ish.... May 17, 2017

Old Timer
North Andover MA

Waiting for a clear consensus. There may be two ways to do it so need more feedback. Dec 13, 2018

PatMontague

I did this from the sit start and it felt V4. There were two really good feet to the left that allowed me to just stand up into the crimp and then fall into the flake. Dec 14, 2018

Dan Knisell
NH

Anyone else see the profile of Jaylen Brown with an extra tall flat top on this boulder? Dec 14, 2018

Ethan Eman

I would disagree that it's V4..... You will have to show me the way, I guess, but from a full sit, definitely not V4. Dec 19, 2018

Jamison Knowlton
Gloucester, MA

I agree with Ethan, getting up from the full sit is somewhat tough and the move getting into the sidepull feels much harder than V4 for me, IMO. Dec 19, 2018

Zac Clark
NH

I agree with the V5 rating after the left crimp broke...I tried it a couple years back, and the crimp was awful which made the first move super hard. Feb 5, 2019

Tim McGivern
Medford, ma

I can’t reach the Gaston with the right from the sit. Using the crimp, I’m able to make the move, but it ain’t V7, and it ain’t V4. It’s prob V4/5 from the stand. Really fun regardless. Sep 15, 2019

Dave Twardowski
Los Angeles, CA

I could reach the Gaston right from the sit, and it felt like a softer V5. Maybe hard V5 or V6 for shorter folks that need the micro right hand start. Sep 15, 2019

Nick Pellegrino
North Reading

Beta vid: youtu.be/Cw9rQRNUiQA.

Found some heel hook beta for the start move which made the Gaston much easier and also let me skip moving the right hand to the second crimp.

Probably V4/V5ish with this beta. Great climb and circuit worthy. Apr 18, 2020

Old Timer
North Andover MA

FYI Nick,

The original posted route started two moves lower than in the video. It was a really low sit that moved up and matched in the crimpy feature on the arete.

Pete (Old Timer) Apr 18, 2020

Nick Pellegrino
North Reading

Thanks, Pete, I’ll have to go back and check out the sit start for the full experience. Apr 26, 2020

JChepes
West Ossipee, NH

Pete!!!! I don’t think these youngstas understand the true meaning of an Otis sit start!!! Apr 26, 2020

Derek Sullivan
Lynn, MA

Hahaha. I've started to refer to them as "lay down" starts.... I'm getting really good at getting my knees next to my ears though.... May 16, 2020

Peyton Luc
Dirty South

V5+

A beta video: youtube.com/shorts/LFCLID-Ncjo. The full sit start feels V5-6. Aug 10, 2025