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Routes in Voyager Rock

Battle Apple T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
End of Summer T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eve of Destruction T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outward Bound Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Phasers Set On Stun (Reunion) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smoke for Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: Eve Laeger, Kris Solem, Herb Laeger, July 1990
Page Views: 449 total · 8/month
Shared By: Brian Prince on Sep 16, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A worthwhile pitch. The line is beautiful and obvious. On the left side of big, bad Voyager is a large "Y" with black rock between the two upper arms. Eve goes up the bottom leg.

The bottom half features some sometimes burly liebacking on a rounded flake/edge of the crack. The top half is some wild, technical liebacking and working a sometimes no-crack shallow corner. Pro is generally good except for a relatively easy bit of a liebacking run to a jug on the bottom and a run to the anchors when the crack totally closes shut at the top.

Fun, but this thing was really dirty!

Location

Left side of Voyager. To the right of a sweet looking 5.12 black corner

Protection

Pro to 3" with some extra small stuff (at least one grey and purple metolius). Small offset stoppers also useful. Anchor is three bolts and tat

Photos

Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
The name "Eve of destruction" refers to Eve Laeger, who did the first lead. As was mentioned, the crack gets dirty so we aided it first to clean it. The water streak and flake to the right is "Cast of Characters" - 5.10 or 5.11+ depending on how you choose to finish. Which ever way you go the top is hard to read. Nov 21, 2014
Dustin Stephens
  5.11b R
Dustin Stephens  
  5.11b R
Vegetated and more like 11b, but incredible climbing. Cleaned a decent size block at the lower crux and beefed up the anchor, but it still needs actual hardware. The runout up top is for real, with huge slab whipper potential. Jun 19, 2016
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
Highly vegetated as of July 15, 2018. Several large shrubs growing in the crack. Too much veg to be appealing. It will likley need cleaning beforehand if you want to try it. Jul 17, 2018

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