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Routes in Leopold Dome

Little Leopold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Laeger, Leversee, Harold Seiden 7/86
Page Views: 308 total, 6/month
Shared By: Brian Prince on Sep 16, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A pretty sweet, mostly crack route. Definitely recommended if you're looking to do some crack climbing at Courtright.

Climbs the huge, obvious flake on the left side of the dome. Approaches it by traversing in from the obvious roof. The Grand Inquisitor approaches the flake directly by, apparently, 5.11 face climbing. I'm not sure which route claims the flake as its own.

P1: Climb the dirty crack/seam to the roof. The route's crux is probably on this pitch. There is some face climbing in between cracks that was a little scary. Set up a hanging belay under the roof. 5.10 100ft.

P2: Undercling traverse left/down under the roof for 30 feet and set up a belay before transitioning into the flake. 5.10 30ft.

P3: Make a tricky move to gain the huge flake. Lay it back/stem for a long ways until it turns into a nice handcrack. Then it really starts curving right and gets easy/dirty. Keep following until you get to a nice little ledge to sit down on. 5.9 120ft.

P4: Head up the cool corner for a little bit and choose an escape route. We broke out right and climbed a nice little handcrack to the summit slabs. 5.8 100+ft.

Easy walk off climber's left.

Location

4th class up to the ledge directly below the roof. First pitch crack/seam leads to the "down pointing crest" of the roof.

Protection

Single rack with at least 2 #3s, 1 #4, and 1 #5 (C4s) is probably a good idea for the flake. Extra .5 for the roof traverse.

Photos

Steve Blevins
Central Coast, CA
 
Steve Blevins   Central Coast, CA
 
Upon reflection, P1 should probably get an R rating. P2 starts with a tough 5.9ish move, continuous 5.8 after. If you are not a strong 5.10+ leader like Brian, you are going to want more big stuff for the flake to lower your stress levels. A 2nd blue and gray would greatly increase the safety of the sustained 5.9 odd crack. 4th pitch takes 200'+ to make it to a belay tree. Exit the left facing corner system to the left to a good, short 5.8 crack and then follow the crack/groove system to the tree.

Allow at least 1.5 hrs approach, 2hrs using other approach beta posted online. Sep 16, 2013