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Routes in Leopold Dome
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Little Leopold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches |
| FA: | Laeger, Leversee, Harold Seiden 7/86 |
| Page Views: | 324 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Prince on Sep 16, 2013 |
| Admins: | M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Description
A pretty sweet, mostly crack route. Definitely recommended if you're looking to do some crack climbing at Courtright.
Climbs the huge, obvious flake on the left side of the dome. Approaches it by traversing in from the obvious roof. The Grand Inquisitor approaches the flake directly by, apparently, 5.11 face climbing. I'm not sure which route claims the flake as its own.
P1: Climb the dirty crack/seam to the roof. The route's crux is probably on this pitch. There is some face climbing in between cracks that was a little scary. Set up a hanging belay under the roof. 5.10 100ft.
P2: Undercling traverse left/down under the roof for 30 feet and set up a belay before transitioning into the flake. 5.10 30ft.
P3: Make a tricky move to gain the huge flake. Lay it back/stem for a long ways until it turns into a nice handcrack. Then it really starts curving right and gets easy/dirty. Keep following until you get to a nice little ledge to sit down on. 5.9 120ft.
P4: Head up the cool corner for a little bit and choose an escape route. We broke out right and climbed a nice little handcrack to the summit slabs. 5.8 100+ft.
Easy walk off climber's left.
Climbs the huge, obvious flake on the left side of the dome. Approaches it by traversing in from the obvious roof. The Grand Inquisitor approaches the flake directly by, apparently, 5.11 face climbing. I'm not sure which route claims the flake as its own.
P1: Climb the dirty crack/seam to the roof. The route's crux is probably on this pitch. There is some face climbing in between cracks that was a little scary. Set up a hanging belay under the roof. 5.10 100ft.
P2: Undercling traverse left/down under the roof for 30 feet and set up a belay before transitioning into the flake. 5.10 30ft.
P3: Make a tricky move to gain the huge flake. Lay it back/stem for a long ways until it turns into a nice handcrack. Then it really starts curving right and gets easy/dirty. Keep following until you get to a nice little ledge to sit down on. 5.9 120ft.
P4: Head up the cool corner for a little bit and choose an escape route. We broke out right and climbed a nice little handcrack to the summit slabs. 5.8 100+ft.
Easy walk off climber's left.
Central Coast, CA
Allow at least 1.5 hrs approach, 2hrs using other approach beta posted online. Sep 16, 2013