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The Gods Must Be Angry
5.10-,
Trad,
Avg: 3.1 from 51
votes
FA: Jack Herrick, Mike Tsoi, Jeff Wenger. April 2003
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Trout Creek
> Northern End
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries
Details
2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
Description
Scramble up a pillar at the start. Harder moves at the start are followed by better holds and jams on this double-crack route. The anchor is to the left.
[Hide Photo] First ascent with Jack Herrick, Mike Tsoi & Jeff Wenger. During the FA, it started raining and thundering before the skies opened up. It was pretty scary so we bailed and finished it the next day.
[Hide Comment] Great line with fun movement. Can place a great first piece from atop the pillar. Can be a bit tenuous in the high winds I found during my first time on the line.
Nov 16, 2015
[Hide Comment] This one felt like a sport climb to me. Lots of good feet if you get them high enough with each move. I found the start to be the crux. It eases up about half-way up.
Sep 10, 2018
Portland, Or
Portland, OR