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Castle in the Sky
V7- PG13,
Boulder, 20 ft (6 m),
Avg: 3.9 from 14
votes
FA: Bonamici or Old School
Wisconsin
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Description
Start seated on a block down and right. Make a big move into a good flake then trend left across the face. Top out and and run up the high but easy slab.
Location
200 yards up from the fruit problems, 200 yards slightly up and left from The Great Eye.
Protection
4 pads (2 big ones) would be sufficient but you may want more.
[Hide Photo] I pulled the jug off the lip. When I grabbed it it flexed so I dropped and pushed it out with a stick. Remo wouldn't have walked away if it broke on his go. There is now a hole that will need to ge…
[Hide Photo] Marshall cuts loose above the poor landing on Castle In The Sky.
[Hide Comment] Ian may be exaggerating the safety thing here. If you're comfortable in the v7 range you can probably do this with 4 pads (2 big, 2 simple with a spotter). If not, you may want 6 but it'd be worth hiking them up there.
That being said, you really don't want to dry fire off the second to last move because you'd probably miss the landing and take a 25 foot fall into the talus.
Sep 23, 2013
[Hide Comment] Bitchin problem. We had 6 guys and 16 pads on this today, with a little send train. Choo choo!! Ian added a harder finish that I'll post up later with pics.
Sep 11, 2014
[Hide Comment] Botching it pulling onto the slab or after would be ugly. Falls from the crux feel well protected with four or so pads though.
Aug 18, 2023
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Waukesha, WI
That being said, you really don't want to dry fire off the second to last move because you'd probably miss the landing and take a 25 foot fall into the talus. Sep 23, 2013
Madison, WI
Madison WI
East Troy, WI