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Routes in Big Gully

Look Before You Leak T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Trad Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skull & Bones T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 85 ft, Grade V
FA: Woody Holliman
Page Views: 532 total · 9/month
Shared By: Woody Holliman on Sep 15, 2013
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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3 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Climb starts below a giant pine tree and follows an obvious corner and crack system straight up to the tree, which can be slung as a belay or rap station (or you can scramble up another 10 feet to the top). A challenging, sustained but well-protected trad lead. The middle section of the climb is slightly overhung, and the crux includes an exhilarating step across the gap between two walls.

Location [Suggest Change]

The route starts approximately 100 feet to the left of Spanish Bombs, in an area which used to be inaccessible (before a recent forest fire) because of heavy brush and thorn cover.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Can be well protected with an assortment of small to large cams and tricams. A couple of long slings will prevent rope drag through the overhanging section.


Great route, I was there the day you guys cleaned it off and got the FA¬Ödefinitely on the plus side of 5.8. Ended up taking a big whipper when a piece popped. Hause gave me a solid catch though. Mar 7, 2014
Winston-Salem, NC
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
I tried this the other day, but didn't get the full direct line. I cut off to the left after the overhanging section, following easier holds. On the rap back down I regretted it though- the corner looks great! Apr 25, 2016

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