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Routes in Big Gully

Look Before You Leak T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Trad Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skull & Bones T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 85 ft, Grade V
FA: Woody Holliman
Page Views: 547 total · 9/month
Shared By: Woody Holliman on Sep 15, 2013
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Climb starts below a giant pine tree and follows an obvious corner and crack system straight up to the tree, which can be slung as a belay or rap station (or you can scramble up another 10 feet to the top). A challenging, sustained but well-protected trad lead. The middle section of the climb is slightly overhung, and the crux includes an exhilarating step across the gap between two walls.

Location

The route starts approximately 100 feet to the left of Spanish Bombs, in an area which used to be inaccessible (before a recent forest fire) because of heavy brush and thorn cover.

Protection

Can be well protected with an assortment of small to large cams and tricams. A couple of long slings will prevent rope drag through the overhanging section.

Photos

Great route, I was there the day you guys cleaned it off and got the FA¬Ödefinitely on the plus side of 5.8. Ended up taking a big whipper when a piece popped. Hause gave me a solid catch though. Mar 7, 2014
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
I tried this the other day, but didn't get the full direct line. I cut off to the left after the overhanging section, following easier holds. On the rap back down I regretted it though- the corner looks great! Apr 25, 2016

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