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Routes in East Fork Valley

Ambush Plaisir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arsenault-Bouchard T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Chimney/South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Great Grey Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Think Therefore I Ambush T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
M Buttress T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midsummer Dome, South Face Center T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Midsummer's Dome SSW T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic for Old Men T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
North Face of Ambush Peak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Raid Peak-South Buttress,East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Runnel Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1 R
Son Of Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Southwest Face Midsummer's Dome T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1700 ft, 16 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Steve Arsenault-John Bouchard
Page Views: 837 total, 16/month
Shared By: stephen arsenault on Sep 13, 2013
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

This is an old route, but I wanted to include it here, since it is one of the longest free climbs in the range.

Location

The obvious long buttress on Raid, looking up the valley from Ambush Peak. The route starts about 50 feet to the right, from the lowest point of the rock, near the lake.

Protection

When we did it back in 1972, there were long run-outs, but with modern cams, I've been told the pro. is adequate. No bolts were placed on the 1st ascent.

Photos

Hey James,
I just got an alert on my email that you made a comment. Sorry you didn't finish it, but it sounds like you made a good decision with the hail etc. As I mentioned in my brief description, there were very long run-outs on perhaps 5.6-.7 ground. I remember one pitch where I essentially had nothing in. Kelsey wrote in his new guidebook that with modern cams, the protection was better. I also remember that although you follow the buttress. the route finding was not all that obvious, due to the lack of a crack system. I was in there last September for a quick visit. Nov 9, 2017
Beta from AAJ: "The climb starts 100 feet from the toe of the buttress. Three pitches led up an obvious ramp on the right side of the buttress. We continued up the middle, passing several large overhangs. A huge ledge was found in the area of the tenth pitch. We continued five pitches more to a block-covered ledge, where we sighted a golden eagle. The final pitch ascended an enjoyable face. From there it was third class to the summit."

We bailed after five pitches. We didn't find the routefinding above the ramp to be very obvious, and found significant runouts and a good bit of loose rock on the lower part of the route. I don't think the route is outrageously dangerous, but it was certainly outside my comfort zone. It started dumping hail on the way down, vindicating our decision. Nov 9, 2017
Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
Mike McNeil   Spearfish, South Dakota
Awsome Steve I am still disappointed we did not try this route on our last day a couple of years ago. It looks as though you could probably go a lot of different ways as there are a lot of options. I will try to post up a photo if I can find them this afternoon. Did you guys do it this year? Sep 13, 2013