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Routes in Misc - needs to be organized!

Ambush Plaisir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arsenault-Bouchard T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Chimney/South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Great Grey Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Think Therefore I Ambush T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
M Buttress T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic for Old Men T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
North Face of Ambush Peak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Raid Peak-South Buttress,East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Runnel Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1 R
Son Of Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1700 ft, 16 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Steve Arsenault-John Bouchard
Page Views: 1,042 total · 17/month
Shared By: stephen arsenault on Sep 13, 2013
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Description

This is an old route, but I wanted to include it here, since it is one of the longest free climbs in the range.

Location

The obvious long buttress on Raid, looking up the valley from Ambush Peak. The route starts about 50 feet to the right, from the lowest point of the rock, near the lake.

Protection

When we did it back in 1972, there were long run-outs, but with modern cams, I've been told the pro. is adequate. No bolts were placed on the 1st ascent.

Photos

Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
Mike McNeil   Spearfish, South Dakota
Awsome Steve I am still disappointed we did not try this route on our last day a couple of years ago. It looks as though you could probably go a lot of different ways as there are a lot of options. I will try to post up a photo if I can find them this afternoon. Did you guys do it this year? Sep 13, 2013
Beta from AAJ: "The climb starts 100 feet from the toe of the buttress. Three pitches led up an obvious ramp on the right side of the buttress. We continued up the middle, passing several large overhangs. A huge ledge was found in the area of the tenth pitch. We continued five pitches more to a block-covered ledge, where we sighted a golden eagle. The final pitch ascended an enjoyable face. From there it was third class to the summit."

We bailed after five pitches. We didn't find the routefinding above the ramp to be very obvious, and found significant runouts and a good bit of loose rock on the lower part of the route. I don't think the route is outrageously dangerous, but it was certainly outside my comfort zone. It started dumping hail on the way down, vindicating our decision. Nov 9, 2017
stephen arsenault  
  5.8
Hey James,
I just got an alert on my email that you made a comment. Sorry you didn't finish it, but it sounds like you made a good decision with the hail etc. As I mentioned in my brief description, there were very long run-outs on perhaps 5.6-.7 ground. I remember one pitch where I essentially had nothing in. Kelsey wrote in his new guidebook that with modern cams, the protection was better. I also remember that although you follow the buttress. the route finding was not all that obvious, due to the lack of a crack system. I was in there last September for a quick visit. Nov 9, 2017
Mike McMahon
Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT
5.9 R
Mike McMahon   Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT
5.9 R
Cool route. Even with small cams, our second pitch had some very serious runouts above non-trivial climbing. I thought the rest of the pitches were reasonably protected. Regarding route finding, we followed the ramp for three long pitches (~550'), passing an old bolt on the third pitch, ending directly beneath the first set of overhangs. We hand-traversed far right in a improbable-looking horizontal until we were beneath a clean dihedral on the right side of the face. We were able to follow this system in some capacity all the way to the "10th" pitch ledge (our 13th). One pitch in this system was akin to dancing through a minefield of loose blocks. That pitch withstanding, most of the route is solid. I thought our route was certainly harder than 5.8. I'll call it 5.9 R so I don't sound too soft.

I carried a double rack to 2" and single #3 camalot. I would have loved another larger cam. 4 days ago
stephen arsenault  
  5.8
Mike, So glad you did the route- a rare event, since few climbers venture in there. On the 1st ascent, before cams, I remember little opportunity to place protection. I don't remember any loose rock, but great difficulty finding usable cracks, where pitons could be driven. Most of the cracks were too shallow. We didn't place any bolts. Do you remember seeing a fixed 2" angle up high, near a huge ledge, a few pitches from the top. I drove it in there for "posterity" to mark the route. 4 days ago
Mike McMahon
Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT
5.9 R
Mike McMahon   Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT
5.9 R
Stephen-
If I thought some of the pitches were rowdy and run-out with a double set of cams, I can hardly imagine how puckering it must have been for you in 1972!! Solid work! We found some form of bail gear, sling, or prior climbing evidence on all of our first eight pitches. After that, I didn't see anything. I didn't find your angle, but did see old knifeblades on our second and third pitches. 4 days ago
stephen arsenault  
  5.8
Mike,
One more comment. On the 1st ascent, we followed the rather narrow buttress ridge straight up, passing one bulge/overhang. I do not remember any loose rock, except high up, around the 12th pitch, on a big ledge, (where I left a bomber 2" angle, as I remember. We had to bivy high up, as we ran out of light, (no headlamps back then). You may have encountered harder climbing the way you went, but I'm sure there were run-out pitches, low down. These comments will probably discourage future ascents. 4 hours ago

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