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No Picnic for Old Men
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Ambush Peak
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Ambush Plaisir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Arsenault-Bouchard T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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East Chimney/South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Great Grey Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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I Think Therefore I Ambush T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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M Buttress T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Picnic for Old Men T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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North Face of Ambush Peak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Raid Peak-South Buttress,East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Runnel Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1 R |
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Son Of Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1400 ft (424 m), 12 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Steve Arsenault-John Bouchard-1972 |
| Page Views: | 2,385 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | stephen arsenault on Sep 13, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
I wanted to add this existing route, put in back in 1972, since there may be some confusion. In the 1994, Kelsey guidebook, it was called "North Buttress Left". In the new guidebook, (2013), it is re-named "No Picnic for Old Men".
In 2011, I repeated the route with Jim Donini, and Joe Kelsey was camping with us. He suggested I re-name the route, which seemed appropriate, at the time; hence the new name.
I might add that Joe Kelsey named it as a "classic" route, for it's grade, in both guidebooks. It could use some cleaning on the 1st few pitches, due to grass growing out of the cracks. The crux pitch and above is clean of vegetation.
In 2011, I repeated the route with Jim Donini, and Joe Kelsey was camping with us. He suggested I re-name the route, which seemed appropriate, at the time; hence the new name.
I might add that Joe Kelsey named it as a "classic" route, for it's grade, in both guidebooks. It could use some cleaning on the 1st few pitches, due to grass growing out of the cracks. The crux pitch and above is clean of vegetation.
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