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Routes in 2. "Far Left Slab" (a.k.a. "Chinos Slab")

Daniel Webster Highway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Webster's Way T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 7 pitches
FA: FRA: Jonathan Garlough & Joshua Corbett
Page Views: 1,111 total · 18/month
Shared By: chinos on Sep 11, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Webster's way is a long moderate slab route up the leftmost of the large slabs on Mt. Webster (3,910). The route climbs just left of the route Daniel Webster Highway up the entire cliff.

The route was equipped with ring anchors on the upper pitchs and a few protection bolts were placed on the lead. The climb has great belay ledges and excellent views of Crawford Notch.

This climb offers the occasional gear placement and bolts, but whitehorse style run-outs should be expected. Tricams can come in handy. The crux sections are short and then return to moderate climbing.

All fixed protection was placed free on the lead with a hand drill

P1: Start at the base of the main toe of slab. Layback the left facing corner with great gear until it ends. Pull over onto the slab and move up to a flake with gear. Angle up and right to an undercling that takes gear. Pull the crux bulge and follow the flakes to the tree anchor on top. 120'
5.7

P2: Bust through some small trees onto the slab and follow it straight up past a couple of gear opportunities to a tree ledge with a tree anchor. 140'
5.3

P3: Climb straight up the slab running it out over a small bulge to a large flake on the left. Continue up the slab to a ring anchor in the gully to the left just below the bushes. 195'
5.5 PG-13

P4: Pop through the bushes and gain a left facing arching corner (pin). Pull out the arch/corner onto the slab and climb past ledges to a bolt. Continue up the slab to a ring anchor on the tree ledge. 205'
5.4 PG-13

P5: An excellent slab pitch! Start up the right edge of the black streak to a bolt. Move up and right to a bolt just over the lip. Continue up to a scoop/footledge (bolt). Finish straight up the slab with a tricam pocket or gun it for the ring anchor on a grassy ledge. 175'
5.5 PG

P6: Climb up and right to gear in a flake. Continue up the slab to the flakes on the headwall above. Climb the hollow sounding flakes or go around to the right to a ring anchor on a ledge to the left. 175' 5.6 PG-13

P7: Climb the grey slab past a bolt and gain a flake with gear next to a grass clump. Angle up and right to the summit ring anchor shared with Daniel Webster Highway. 125'
5.3 PG-13

Location

The "far left" big slab on Mt. Webster

Protection

Standard rack, tricams, bolts, ring anchors.

Photos

chinos
 
chinos  
 
i know people have been soloing the webster slabs for years. I enjoy it as well, but we thought a couple established routes would add to the area. There were no recorded routes on this slab, so we added a couple routes with anchors for everyone to enjoy. due to the increased popularity of the routes on the slabs to the right (Lost in the Sun, A Bit Short, Bore Tide) I thought it was worth it to add more options to the area. Sep 16, 2013
bradley white   Bend
excellent and plenty of water is good in the summer. Nov 23, 2013
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.6 PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.6 PG13
The "2nd Flake" (to protect the slabby portion of the climb) on P1 is easily missed...it's one of those rounded-flakes, about 18"-2ft high, on the left. We also had to sort of "hunt" for the 5.7 (if you know where the rap tree anchor is, it is easier to "find" the 5.7) ....the rock sort of "flows" to the right and up into the tree ledge at a MUCH easier grade. Going that way the crux of P1 is the first large flake/crack, about 5.4-5.5.

We combined P1 of Webster's Way with the rest of Webster's Highway and had a good time, also doing the fine P5 of Webster's Way "on our way down".

The first and last raps can be made with a single 70m, so taking a 70m and a 60m for rapping makes sense. Sep 25, 2015
Ron Birk
Boston, MA
Ron Birk   Boston, MA
Enjoyable route! Liked the first and sixth pitch the most. I would rate the whole route 5-5-5.6. The sixth pitch is more like 5.4. The fourth pitch requires some easy simul climb if using a 60m rope. The route has sparse protection so you should be comfortable at the grade. Jul 30, 2017

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