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Routes in 2. "Far Left Slab" (a.k.a. "Chinos Slab")
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Daniel Webster Highway T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Webster's Way T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches |
| FA: | FRA: Jonathan Garlough & Joshua Corbett |
| Page Views: | 2,293 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | chinos Garlough on Sep 11, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Webster's way is a long moderate slab route up the leftmost of the large slabs on Mt. Webster (3,910). The route climbs just left of the route Daniel Webster Highway up the entire cliff.
The route was equipped with ring anchors on the upper pitchs and a few protection bolts were placed on the lead. The climb has great belay ledges and excellent views of Crawford Notch.
This climb offers the occasional gear placement and bolts, but whitehorse style run-outs should be expected. Tricams can come in handy. The crux sections are short and then return to moderate climbing.
All fixed protection was placed free on the lead with a hand drill
P1: Start at the base of the main toe of slab. Layback the left facing corner with great gear until it ends. Pull over onto the slab and move up to a flake with gear. Angle up and right to an undercling that takes gear. Pull the crux bulge and follow the flakes to the tree anchor on top. 120'
5.7
P2: Bust through some small trees onto the slab and follow it straight up past a couple of gear opportunities to a tree ledge with a tree anchor. 140'
5.3
P3: Climb straight up the slab running it out over a small bulge to a large flake on the left. Continue up the slab to a ring anchor in the gully to the left just below the bushes. 195'
5.5 PG-13
P4: Pop through the bushes and gain a left facing arching corner (pin). Pull out the arch/corner onto the slab and climb past ledges to a bolt. Continue up the slab to a ring anchor on the tree ledge. 205'
5.4 PG-13
P5: An excellent slab pitch! Start up the right edge of the black streak to a bolt. Move up and right to a bolt just over the lip. Continue up to a scoop/footledge (bolt). Finish straight up the slab with a tricam pocket or gun it for the ring anchor on a grassy ledge. 175'
5.5 PG
P6: Climb up and right to gear in a flake. Continue up the slab to the flakes on the headwall above. Climb the hollow sounding flakes or go around to the right to a ring anchor on a ledge to the left. 175' 5.6 PG-13
P7: Climb the grey slab past a bolt and gain a flake with gear next to a grass clump. Angle up and right to the summit ring anchor shared with Daniel Webster Highway. 125'
5.3 PG-13
The route was equipped with ring anchors on the upper pitchs and a few protection bolts were placed on the lead. The climb has great belay ledges and excellent views of Crawford Notch.
This climb offers the occasional gear placement and bolts, but whitehorse style run-outs should be expected. Tricams can come in handy. The crux sections are short and then return to moderate climbing.
All fixed protection was placed free on the lead with a hand drill
P1: Start at the base of the main toe of slab. Layback the left facing corner with great gear until it ends. Pull over onto the slab and move up to a flake with gear. Angle up and right to an undercling that takes gear. Pull the crux bulge and follow the flakes to the tree anchor on top. 120'
5.7
P2: Bust through some small trees onto the slab and follow it straight up past a couple of gear opportunities to a tree ledge with a tree anchor. 140'
5.3
P3: Climb straight up the slab running it out over a small bulge to a large flake on the left. Continue up the slab to a ring anchor in the gully to the left just below the bushes. 195'
5.5 PG-13
P4: Pop through the bushes and gain a left facing arching corner (pin). Pull out the arch/corner onto the slab and climb past ledges to a bolt. Continue up the slab to a ring anchor on the tree ledge. 205'
5.4 PG-13
P5: An excellent slab pitch! Start up the right edge of the black streak to a bolt. Move up and right to a bolt just over the lip. Continue up to a scoop/footledge (bolt). Finish straight up the slab with a tricam pocket or gun it for the ring anchor on a grassy ledge. 175'
5.5 PG
P6: Climb up and right to gear in a flake. Continue up the slab to the flakes on the headwall above. Climb the hollow sounding flakes or go around to the right to a ring anchor on a ledge to the left. 175' 5.6 PG-13
P7: Climb the grey slab past a bolt and gain a flake with gear next to a grass clump. Angle up and right to the summit ring anchor shared with Daniel Webster Highway. 125'
5.3 PG-13
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