Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Beckey Route direct start

5.10b, Trad, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 8 votes
FA: unknown
California > Eastern Sierra > Lone Pine Area > Whitney Portal > El Segundo Buttress

Description

This left facing dihedral leads to the flake belay on the Beckey. We did an incorrect direct direct start up a very grainy dihedral, which was fine. The actual start is much farther right.

A seam angles left up a golden stained slab under a roof. This deposits you a the base of a large left facing dihedral. Move left at the top of the dihedral, around the corner to the flakes atop Beckey P1.

Location

A fair bit right of the normal start up the drainage between El Segundo and Premier buttresses.

Protection

Standard rack sufficed. Additionally, a BD #4 was key as were some small cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Beckey Direct. Normal start is a bit right. You can also start via a shallow right facing dihedral (dashed line). Photo credit Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Beckey Direct. Normal start is a bit right. You can also start via a shallow right facing dihedral (dashed line). Photo credit Blitzo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

nathanael
San Diego
 
[Hide Comment] Really fun pitch. Interesting slab moves up to a cool undercling roof traverse. #4 not needed Jun 18, 2018