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Routes in El Segundo Buttress

Beckey Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beckey Route direct start T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Chief No Show S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bird Brain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Can't Get Here From There T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chortle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Manipulator, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Press The Eject T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 750 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Don Womack & Dean Kisling, 6/1988
Page Views: 290 total, 6/month
Shared By: Mike Stearns on Sep 10, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Portal Road Closure Details


Honestly, we only climbed a portion of the route after getting off the Beckey route.

The pitches seem to be:

P1 - moderate approach pitch angling slightly up and left towards the slab left of large roof, 5.7?
P2 - 7
P3 - 9, bolt + gear
P4 - tricky 5.10 slab, this is the pitch we climbed
P5 - topo indicates this is the crux pitch, did not climb
P6 - ? the buttress eases back, and like the Beckey, the rating probably eases a bit


Left of Beckey route.


crux pitches are bolted, spaced but adequate. Standard Portal rack up to 3.5" or so?


Mike Stearns  
That's sounds right Rich. I honestly can't remember despite that it was only two days ago. We also only climbed the one middle 10a pitch (which felt hard for the grade, btw). Sep 11, 2013
Unless the bolts on this rig have been replaced, I remember them all being 1/4" button heads. They did look good at the time (2012) with no rust and no spinners. Sep 10, 2013