PRINT: Rock Climb Endurance, Santa Fe Area

Endurance

5.11-, Sport, 110 ft (33 m),

Avg: 2.9 from 28 votes
FA: Mike Tupper
New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Shack > Main Wall

Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details

Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.

Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.

Description

Basicaly follows a crack with a low roof and section of delicate face climbing. Some rotten rock, but super fun otherwise. (60m rope does NOT reach)

Location

Right of Fire on the Mountain

Protection

15 bolts and anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Meher Best clears the roof <br>
on the lower third of<br>
Endurance (5.11-)

Meher Best clears the roof on the lower third of Endurance (5.11-)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM

5.10d

I think this route is called "Endurance" (Mike Tupper FA) but I'll let someone with more familiarity with the area confirm this. Sep 10, 2013

Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM

Hey Jason,
Mike said he had no name for this route but he liked the name "Endurance" Sep 29, 2013

Bill Czajkowski
Albuquerque, NM

Probably be a classic once it gets cleaned properly. Nice mixing of face and crack climbing. Sep 20, 2015

Karl R. Kiser

About 1998, Tom Wezwick, Chris Kessler and I placed set of rap hangers at the top of this wall (right of the headwall and left of the tree). We approached from the top so the anchor is quite close to walking terrain. It would appear that the start may be Endurance but then we TRed up and right (above the anchors for the next routes right). The 5.11- rating for our very long pitch seems about correct. I expect our full line would need two shorter pitches today. Oct 15, 2016

Logan Peterson
Santa Fe, NM

Chains have now been added to the anchors, so a rappel is no longer necessary in order to prevent rope twist. However, YOU STILL NEED A 70 METER ROPE, and a knot at the end isn't a bad idea either.
This route is still cleaning up, with a good deal of choss remaining in the crack. This said, the varied character of the climbing and the fantastic crux up top make for a future classic. Apr 10, 2017

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM

5.10d

If you don't have a 70m rope, it's possible to lower to the anchors for Gauntlet, go off belay, untie, pull the rope and tie back in to lower from the Gauntlet anchors. Sep 8, 2019