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Routes in Sunshine Wall

Edgehog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Faithful Friend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Green Ivy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hedgehog S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Gem S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Beginnings S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunshine Surprise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Euan Cameron, Julie Wright, 6th August 2013
Page Views: 2,223 total · 41/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Sep 9, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start a few feet right of the toe of the buttress. Climb up rightwards following the groove until possible to move directly up the steepening slab.

Climb directly up the wide shallow groove feature to gain quartz dike holds above. Follows these holds up the wall to just below the top, then finish direct to the right of the pine tree.

Location

Right side of the main face

Protection

8 bolts, double ring anchor (equipped with Mussy Hooks).

Photos

great climb but I felt the bolts were a little out of place, mostly a weird runout at the end where it still felt sustained. Sep 18, 2015
kenr
  5.8
kenr  
  5.8
Good variety of thoughtful fun climbing moves, sustained difficulty.

Top-Rope: If you want to have multiple people climb it on Top-Rope after leading this route, I suggest bringing a couple of long slings ... because the two-bolt anchor for leading is set above away from the edge of the steeper rock, so you'd have more rope drag over the edge if Top-Rope directy off the two-bolt anchor for leading.

We instead used as our TR anchor the obvious large tree with bare twin trunks. Attached a long sling off that. Plus a directional on one of the bolts about one-third the way up from the ground.

We were able to reach the top anchor by scrambling down from above (without leading this route) ... by going way out around the left side of the crag. But that took a lot of work and time, much on steep slippery sandy stuff (with some exposure?) -- so likely makes more sense for most parties to Lead up to the anchor. Aug 10, 2015
Preston Rhea
Mammoth Lakes
  5.8
Preston Rhea   Mammoth Lakes
  5.8
I led this climb in October of 2012 on trad gear. It followed the same line almost exactly except at the 4th both (what I think is the crux of the bolted line), I went a little bit to the right of the groove staying on the more featured dikes. With the variation, it felt more like a 5.7. The gear is small and a bit on the exciting side and it is a serious lead that way.

Great job bolting it! I like where you placed the 4th bolt. The whole line is great. So again, killer job! Oct 2, 2013
James Barnett
Bishop Ca.
James Barnett   Bishop Ca.
Great climb Oct 1, 2013
butters
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
  5.8
butters   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
  5.8
pretty sweet climb. stoked on the new little zone. its got some interesting moves that almost make it feel like 5.9. those moves get the 4th star. exciting 5.8 climb. also added some extra excitement factor as the climb was wet and the good foot holds were filled with snow. Sep 23, 2013

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