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Routes in Sunshine Wall

Edgehog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Faithful Friend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Green Ivy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hedgehog S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Gem S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Beginnings S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunshine Surprise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Euan Cameron, 31st August 2013
Page Views: 221 total, 4/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Sep 9, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Starting from the lowest point of the face climb directly up to a good stance at the 3rd bolt. Now the fun begins. Climb the slab above via some thin moves to gain the better holds on the quartz dike.

Continue directly above the dike to finish just left of the large pine tree.

Location

Middle of the main slab

Protection

7 bolts, double ring anchors (equipped with Mussy Hooks).
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
OK, if you say so. I'll have to try it that way again the next time I'm up there. Jul 29, 2016
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
 
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
 
The original way is straight up. No holds have broken although they are small.

Definitely a couple grades easier to head left to reach the dike.

The original is 10b slab. Jul 29, 2016
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
Yeah, I agree. The funny thing is, the photo here makes it look like he did just go straight up at the crux. This seemed ridiculously hard for the grade to me, and I also traversed left until I could move up to the dike. I wonder if the hold has broken?

Jul 28, 2016
BAd
  5.10b
BAd  
  5.10b
Made the mistake of TR'ing this first. Should have led it. At first I thought the climbing went straight up at the crux, and that looked--for me--impossible. So thrash on TR, right? Well, got up there on the TR, realized there was no way to make it go straight up, so "cheated" going out left to the dike! Great moves, fun, flashed it. Will go back. Love that phat dyke. Jul 28, 2016
kenr  
Sharon could not handle any climbing at the 10b level, but she found lots of fun climbing around 5.6 maybe 5.7 in the lower two-thirds. She was on Top-Rope which we'd set up after first climhing "Little Gem", so she just lowered off when she reached the crux.

Top-Rope: If you want to have multiple people climb it on Top-Rope after leading this route, I suggest bringing a couple of long slings ... because the two-bolt anchor for leading is set above away from the edge of the steeper rock, so you'd have more rope drag over the edge if Top-Rope directy off the two-bolt anchor for leading.

We instead used as our TR anchor the obvious large tree with bare twin trunks (because closer to the edge, and convenient to use to help with TR on other climbs). We attached a long sling off that tree. Plus a directional on one of the bolts near the top of this route. Aug 10, 2015
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10b/c
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10b/c
Maybe I didn't climb this quite right?! Dyno didn't work for me, so I resorted to a high-step/match w. left foot/hand. Crux bolt is in a great spot. Aug 21, 2014
butters
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
  5.10b
butters   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
  5.10b
fun climb with the 10b crux between 4th n 5th bolt. fun delicate traverse to the epic dyke. Oct 16, 2013
James Barnett
Bishop Ca.
James Barnett   Bishop Ca.
Easy down low with some good moves up higher on great rock Oct 1, 2013