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Routes in Steamboat Mountain

Poor Man's Wingate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 613 total · 11/month
Shared By: George Bracksieck on Sep 9, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Edit]

On July 22, 1977, Claire Carren and I climbed the longest, most obvious, clean dihedral on the whole cliff band. On the first pitch, difficult, wide stems lead to an overhang, over which you must reach high for a good jam. Continue jamming and liebacking up the vertical corner to a ledge.

The second pitch climbs ledgy, blocky terrain to the rim. Beware of loose rock. While following, Claire pulled off a block bigger than she was, and she fell. The block hit the ground near our packs. We walked off to the east and down to the south, then northwest along the base to our packs.

Location [Edit]

This route features the longest, most obvious clean dihedral on the whole cliff band and is found about one third of the way from the right end of the cliff band. We approached from the highway, below. There may, or may not, be access issues.

Protection [Edit]

We had hexes and stoppers. I placed a #11 Hex at the overhang on p.1. Today, I would take SR through four inches — maybe doubles on two through three inches.

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