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Routes in Black's Link

Chasm Spasm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gully Bully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Jackie ?
Page Views: 53 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nick Sullens on Sep 8, 2013
Admins: Brian Boyd, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

I'll admit it, I have a fetish for roof cracks, and when I saw this route I got real excited. Starting from a ledge directly underneath the nose of Black's Link climb directly out the perfect hands crack, with the crux coming pulling the lip and transitioning your feet on top of the roof. A bit intimidating but once you pull on it is all fun. Long reaches between good jams underneath the roof. Although probably only about 6 moves, this route is intense.

Location

Start from the ledge just below the Nose of the Blacks Link formation and jam directly out into space, feels a bit scary and exposed.

Protection

You can place a .75 and a 1 from the ledge and another 1 or 2 as you are pulling the roof. There is an easier section (5.6 or 5.7) that follows above the roof, I'd bring a few pieces in the hand or fist size. Make sure to flip the rope out of the crack after pulling the lip, I made the mistake of not and almost fixed a few cams. Be wary of the loose flake wedged in the upper section of the crack, I stood on it gently, but it could go any time.

A gear anchor can be built for the belayer.

Top is a gear anchor, if you warm up on Gully Bully then you can leave the anchor and reposition it for this route once on top.

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