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Routes in Black's Link

Chasm Spasm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gully Bully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 66 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nick Sullens on Sep 8, 2013
Admins: Brian Boyd, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

A burly offwidth in Hong Kong? This route fits the bill, I'm currently seeping plasma out of most of my limbs. An awkward start turns into armbarring with a pretty solid kneebar and smears for ratcheting up. Quite dirty when I lead it, but it felt much nicer on TR after I used my body as a brush.

Location

Up above the nose like formation there is a corridor which leads to Gully Bully, this route is at the mouth of this corridor. Easily recognized due to its continuous 5-6 inch wideness.

Protection

I placed a one, a three, a five, then walked a 6 for the rest. There are a few bolts on top without hangers, next time I am up there I will bring some hangers. Otherwise there are options for a gear anchor, anywhere from .75 to 2 will do ya for the anchor.

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