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Grinch Breath

5.10, TR, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
Massachusetts > N Shore > Cape Ann > Redrocks & Vici… > Pet Slabs > Turk Face
Access Issue: Covid Guidelines Details

Description

This is a marvelously thin line and a real celebration of the synergy between textured rock and sticky rubber. The only true hand hold is at the top. It is also still a bit dirty and could use a little love.

This climbs the steep section just right of Pale Blue Eyes and just left of an obvious uncleaned mossy area. Smear up the steep section aiming for an small hand hold near the top. About two thirds of the way up, you will meet slight, right-facing flake: the crux is below this after which the climbing eases but not considerably. Once you reach the hand hold, head left to the belay tree.

This is maybe three stars for those who like smearing on nasty Cape Ann granite.

Location

This climbs the steep section just right of Pale Blue Eyes and just left of an obvious uncleaned mossy area. Smear up the steep section aiming for an small hand hold near the top. About two thirds of the way up, you will pass a slight, right-facing flake: the crux is below this after which the climbing eases but not considerably. A few more moves gets you to a lichen section where you will find the finishing the hand hold, then head left to the belay tree.

Protection

2 bolts at the top. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Grinch Breath (5.10) climbs the steep white slab immediately left of the uncleaned area.
[Hide Photo] Grinch Breath (5.10) climbs the steep white slab immediately left of the uncleaned area.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

jim.dangle

  5.10
[Hide Comment] I bumped this up a star and downgraded it a little now that it is gotten cleaner. Short but really sweet friction climbing. One of my favorite pure friction routes in the Redrock area. Unlike many other slab climbs in the area, there are really very few actual features. Just you, your shoes, and the very blank rock.

Jim Oct 26, 2013