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Routes in Turk Face

Grinch Breath TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pale Blue Eyes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turkish Delight TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 41 total, 1/month
Shared By: jim.dangle on Sep 8, 2013
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


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Description

This is a marvelously thin line and a real celebration of the synergy between textured rock and sticky rubber. The only true hand hold is at the top. It is also still a bit dirty and could use a little love.

This climbs the steep section just right of Pale Blue Eyes and just left of an obvious uncleaned mossy area. Smear up the steep section aiming for an small hand hold near the top. About two thirds of the way up, you will meet slight, right-facing flake: the crux is below this after which the climbing eases but not considerably. Once you reach the hand hold, head left to the belay tree.

This is maybe three stars for those who like smearing on nasty Cape Ann granite.

Location

This climbs the steep section just right of Pale Blue Eyes and just left of an obvious uncleaned mossy area. Smear up the steep section aiming for an small hand hold near the top. About two thirds of the way up, you will pass a slight, right-facing flake: the crux is below this after which the climbing eases but not considerably. A few more moves gets you to a lichen section where you will find the finishing the hand hold, then head left to the belay tree.

Protection

No pro. Top-rope off small tree at top.

Photos

jim.dangle  
 
I bumped this up a star and downgraded it a little now that it is gotten cleaner. Short but really sweet friction climbing. One of my favorite pure friction routes in the Redrock area. Unlike many other slab climbs in the area, there are really very few actual features. Just you, your shoes, and the very blank rock.

Jim Oct 26, 2013