Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Andy Boy Wall

5.11 face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
5.8 My Ass T,S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
5.9 crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bob's Big Boy T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Would You Like Fries With That T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 100 ft
FA: Bryan Pletta & Karl Kiser & Noah Monagle, summer 2013
Page Views: 404 total, 8/month
Shared By: Karl Kiser on Sep 8, 2013
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The crux is the last roof. It may be slightly harder for shorter persons. Be sure to have a one foot sling for the bolt on the first roof (rope drag if a sport draw). If the third bolt of Bob's Big Boy is clipped at the start, a triple runner or equivalent is best to reduce rope drag.

Location

The left wall to the right of Bob's Big Boy. Clip the first bolts of Bob's Big Boy then trend right and straight up through the roofs. Rap the route (be very careful if a 60m rope is used).

Protection

Gear and bolts. Cams 0.3 to number #4 (double .4) and a few medium stoppers. Better to have many two foot runners. Bolts and chains at the top.

Photos

Quite fun :) The first two roofs are definitely an ego boost, until you get your ass handed to you (or maybe it's pulled out from under you) on the third. Worth doing for sure :) Sep 17, 2013
Bryan Pletta
  5.10d
Bryan Pletta  
  5.10d
To clarify gear, I used two 0.4 Camalots on the FA not two #4s. You could also probably take two #3s, although I think the #4 works better at the top of the wide crack. The wide section is actually pretty fun, laybacking the edge and climbing stacked (safely wedged) blocks on jugs. The first roof is a hoot - completely improbable as you are standing below it, but everything is there when you need it. Sep 9, 2013