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Routes in Bradyism Wall

Cleveland Steamer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Come On Eileen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Marsha Gets Creamed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Morning Dew S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Open Your Mouth and Say AAHHH! S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pulsating Fantasticals S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wanna Play Doctor? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Blake Workman
Page Views: 387 total, 8/month
Shared By: BBQ on Sep 8, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Those of you with weak stomachs may not want to look up the definition of a cleveland steamer on Urban Dictionary. YUCK! Who is into that kinda shit?

Starts on brown streaks (pun intended). Grunt and strain in order to get yourself over a small, bulgy roof (with not-so-huge positive holds) and into overhung territory where the going gets thin. Grab pockets and crimps. Pinch a side pull. Pinch a loaf.

Short, powerful and strangely satisfying if you have a fetish for this sort of thing. This climb may get two stars from some climbers because it really only has two or three hard bowel movements on it. The crux is on crimps and gets really sick when you grab a lincoln log of a gastone. Gain high feet and rock up to a shitty intermediate left hand hold. Give it one more grunt with a big, reachy move to a small, yet positive ledgy-crimp to clip. The rest of the climbing is easy on huge jugs.

GET ON THIS THING! It is a shit-ton of fun and must be done! You'll feel like a rock star if you send but will look like a steaming pile if you can't red point this sandbagged wonder.

Save the Best for Last!

7th route from the left. Starts right of the crack on the right-most side of the wall. This climb has a variation of bolts to its right a bit higher up the hill. Pull on good crimpers and pockets to the third bolt and head left to Cleveland Steamer's fourth bolt.

Protection

7 bolts. Open Anchors.
Franck Vee
  5.11c
Franck Vee  
  5.11c
Houla this is a STIFFY crux for 11b. I'd give it 11c, but only for that move really. The rest is comparatively easy I found.

But that crux will throw you for a loop. I would consider stick-clipping the 2nd - the fall is nowhere near dangerous (1st & 2nd are barely 2 feet appart) but it's not much fun repeatedly falling above the 1st bolt (both as a climber and belayer)... expect to work that crux a couple times unless you're a boulderer or very very solid at the grade... Aug 3, 2017