Avg: 2 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft, 6 pitches|
|FA:||FRA: Jonathan Garlough & Lauren Bergeron.|
|Page Views:||1,307 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||chinos on Sep 8, 2013|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
This route offers cracks, flakes, and the occasional gear placement. Expect Whitehorse style run-outs throughout the climb. Two protection bolts were placed on pitch 5 on the lead. All pitches were equipped with ring anchors. Two 60M ropes are required for rappelling the route.
This low angled slab route has a great belay ledges and offers superb views of Crawford Notch. The granite is quality for the most part and has a nice alpine feel. The cliff is naturally pretty clean. The steeper crux section is short and the rest is moderate climbing.
All fixed protection was placed free on the lead with a hand drill.
Pitch 1: Start at the toe of the slab just right of the steeper section of cliff. Climb right of the tree filled gully at 5.5 or to the left of the gully up the big overlap at 5.6 R. Finish at the tree ledge above. Move the belay left to the tree below the obvious crack system on the slab above. 195' 5.5 PG-13
Pitch 2: Climb the wandering flaring crack getting gear when possible to a small ledge with bush's on it. Pull the small overlap off the ledge and regain a wide crack (maybe #5 or 6 cam?). Follow it to a small grass ledge with a ring anchor. 190' 5.5 PG-13
Pitch 3: Climb a short easy slab to gain a large left facing flake. Follow various flakes through the scoop. Run it out up a 5.3 slab to a ring anchor on a ledge. 190' 5.4 PG-13
Pitch 4: Continue up the easy slab to a tree ledge. Pull onto the steep slab (crux) and a gain a large right facing flake in the middle of the wall. Follow the flake until it ends. Angle right to another flake and continue straight up the rippled slab to a ring anchor. 190' 5.6 PG-13
Pitch 5: Step left off the anchor and climb straight up the excellent featured slab past two widely spaced bolts. Get gear in the cracks below the tree ledge and finish at a bolt/tree anchor. 195' 5.4 PG-13
Pitch 6: Pull the overlap and punch it up the slab with little protection to a ring anchor to the right of the bush's on top of the cliff. 120' 5.4 PG-13