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Out of Gas
5.9,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3.1 from 233
votes
FA: Darren Knezek
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Southern Wasatch
> American Fork C…
> Serenity
> Eavesdown Docks
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area
Details
Description
A truly fun jug haul whose start climbs like the 5.9 gym route on the lead wall. You know: the one that's super steep with huge jugs that you think doesn't exist outside.
Start at the base of a right-facing corner (same start as for Shindig) and head up and then left on big holds. At the second bolt, head farther left using big moves on bigger holds with dicey feet. Make the transition to the face and enjoy the big pockets for a couple of bolts until a ledge.
After the ledge climb next to the left-facing flake, marveling that the flake isn't coming off.
A tenuous couple of moves right before the chains and then it's over.
Location
Starts up the right-facing corner that marks the end of the overhanging rock above the wider, flat spot in the trail. Shares its first bolt with Shindig.
Protection
9 bolts, ring anchors (shared with Captain Tight Pants to the left).
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![Wayne Pullman leading [[108326353]] 5.9.](https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/108336739_medium_1494277079.jpg?cache=1617710142)
Move the top bolts 3 feet left for a nicer (9+ish) finish on the black wall.
Or lower the anchor down to the half way ledge and it will become the most done 5.9 in the canyon.
Giving it 3 stars to the mid ledge only.
Good work gents. Sep 8, 2013
SLC, Utah
Salt Lake City, UT