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Routes in Pud Saddler Rock

Three Men and a Baby S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Ken Ariza with some Rich Tucker and Scott Cosgrove, 1985
Page Views: 530 total · 9/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Sep 6, 2013
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: NEW RESTRICTIONS Details

Description

Start in the decomposing corner and make some sandy and sorta sketch moves to clip the first bolt. Follow the tiers up and right doing big moves on steep rock. An interesting and delicate top out leads to a flat top out on the shoulder of the crag.

Location

This route lies on the far right end of the north west face of Pud Saddler Rock. Descend over the back and down to climbers right.

Protection

I'm thinking there are 5 bolts on this thing. There is currently no bolt anchor at the top. Take some small to med cams for the anchor.

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.12a/b
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.12a/b
The name of this route, as I recall, was more about the FA party than the movie of the same name. I guess one of the possible FAists had some sort of meltdown and was pouting pretty heavy, thus the name. The baby it is rumored was a big time Stonemaster. Probably had something to do with bolts or ground up or something.

Maybe Ken will chime in? Sep 6, 2013
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.12a/b
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.12a/b
I asked Ken about the route and he said:

I did the first of this route in '85 with a bit of help from Rich Tucker and Cosgrove. Rich actually drilled the (third?) bolt on the route hanging from a Fish products meathook, Exclaiming shortly after "this is the best day of my life".....laughed my ass off.

Originally named it Black Flag, changed the name shortly after when Bachar showed up and started crying and berating me/us for punching in the last bolt and exiting straight up instead of traversing off directly right via the "natural" line. Scott, Rich and Myself discussed it later and decided to rename the route, hence paying homage to the four of us proper.

The rock quality is so so but its steep and has got fun moves. Coz did the second and then down climbed it in big hair, lycra tight wearing, 1980's superhero fashion.
Gotta say also, I don't mean to bad mouth John. In reality Iv'e got tons respect for the man. Just stating the facts as they were. Oct 17, 2013

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